Karen Deutsch

Comfort Food at Cook and Dagger

You'll forget all about its unpolished decor after a single, satisfying bite.

Chef Chris Kattawar transfigures familiar plates — Bolognese with fist-sized ricotta gnocchi; fried chicken with Texas toast — with ease.

Indian Cuisine Shines at Dabbawala Lunchbox

This small Indian restaurant looks unassuming on the outside, but its dishes are anything but ho-hum.

Every dish at Dabbawala Lunchbox is surprising: unexpected texture, nuanced spice, an adherence to culture that tastes less like tradition and more like artwork.

Swiss-inspired Cuisine Shines at Rosmarin

A juxtaposition of earthiness and intricacy drives this Downcity kitchen.

311 Westminster St., Providence, 521-3333, rosmarin-ri.com Open for dinner Wed.–Mon. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking. Cuisine Swiss. Capacity Twenty-six in the dining room. Vibe The decor is still in flux but the food — part Ursula Andress, part Daniel Humm — is worth the visit. Prices Savory dishes: $9–$26; dessert: $10; six-course tasting menu: $69 Karen’s picks Tasting menus…

Low-Country Cooking Bucktown

An unpretentious joint offers Southern comfort food at its messy best.

Bucktown 471 West Fountain St., 343-0441, Providence, bucktownpvd.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sun. for breakfast. Wheelchair accessibility is tough; all counters are stool-high. Street parking. Capacity Twenty-three, plus outdoor seating in warmer weather. Cuisine Low country cooking. Vibe As if a 1970s VW bus in the Deep South opened its awning and started serving sandwiches. Prices Mains $5–$20;…

Massimo Updates Old-School Italian

The new restaurant on Federal Hill serves modern Italian cuisine.

134 Atwells Ave., Providence, 273-0650, massimori.com Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sundays for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking. Cuisine Modern Italian. Capacity 200 Vibe Federal Hill in its forties: mature but still looking for a good time. Prices Appetizers $9–$14; entrees $17–$34; dessert $6–$9. Karen’s picks Fried burrata, beef carpaccio, pasta, Massimo steak. Key  Fair  Good  Very Good  Excellent Half-star   Walking…