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Mediterraneo

Mediterraneo is a youngster compared to its neighbors on the Hill, some of which — Angelo’s, Camille’s and Joe Marzilli’s — are nearing a hundred years old. With all of the other Italian options, the popularity of Mediterraneo has as much to do with ambience as with food. The restaurant’s large front facade opens up in warmer months giving diners the best location in town to view the sidewalk traffic of Atwells Avenue. The downstairs dining area is warm with stone tabletops, wood paneling and an open kitchen that, strangely, shows more of the restaurant’s inventory than its operations. Though the upstairs lacks some of the charm of the entry level, it’s a space with a dual function. It converts to a Latin-style dance club on Saturday nights where the line is several people deep and food comes in a distant third after entertainment and alcohol.

Italian conviviality rules the restaurant, which is almost always welcome. I even accept the moniker of “honey” from one server with a smile, although the other winks at me so many times I begin to think he has a bit of parmesan caught in his eye.

Pasta is surprising at Mediterraneo for several reasons. It comes from Venda Ravioli down the block (does anyone make their own pasta anymore?), and it’s not inexpensive. Even a penne with vodka sauce, though tasty, is sixteen dollars and includes little more than the pasta, canned tomatoes, cream and a splash of alcohol. Gnocchi is also good, though at $17.95 and dressed with just tomato and mozzarella, it’s an expensive bowl of flour and potato dough that’s not homemade. The tagliatelle Bolognese, however, is well worth its price tag of $18.95. Ground pork, veal and beef are cooked with tomatoes and wine with a splash of cream to tenderize the meat. This version has all the right proportions and a hearty appeal that would draw anyone back for a visit.

Meat dishes are not as successful. A chicken scaloppini is heightened by several butterflied shrimp that pair well with the very tangy lemon sauce, but the dish itself has more aesthetic than culinary charisma. A double portion of veal with tomato and mozzarella is an exceedingly heavy version of veal parmesan. With one slab covering the other, there is no hope of avoiding at least one soggy cutlet.

Unexpectedly, the restaurant does well with salads, including a very simple version of mixed greens with balsamic vinaigrette and a delectable parmesan-heavy Caesar. The only exception is a Caprese; the house-made mozzarella proves too dry and in need of salt.

Desserts follow the line of Italian standards (tiramisu, gelato and cheesecake, as well as a molten chocolate cake and bread pudding), all of which are good enough to split after a heavy meal. Given the restaurant’s Italian roots, don’t overlook the wine list, with a hundred-plus varieties including a good selection from Tuscany and Piedmont. (Heck, the Bolognese is good enough to make even an inexpensive Chianti worthwhile.) Hospitality will accompany you to the very end of your meal, as a shot of Limoncello to aid digestion is often on the house. You’ll need it if you’re planning on heading upstairs to merengue.                                                      

Mediterraneo -
134 Atwells Avenue, 331-7760,
www.mediterraneocaffe.com
Years in Business: 9
Chef: Gianfranco Campanella,
Corporate Executive Chef; Michele Calise, Executive Chef
Cuisine: Italian
Dinner for Two: $125
what to Get: Caesar salad and tagliatelle Bolognese. 
DON’T Get: Meat dishes, which are expensive and underwhelming.
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- February, 2007

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