Maven’s Delicatessen Set to Open in Pawtucket
The authentic Jewish deli will start serving customers on Dec. 3, says owner Jason Sugarman.
The wait is almost over.
On Dec. 3, foodies will be able to buy sandwiches piled high with smoked in-house pastrami, authentic boiled bagels, matzo ball soup, rugelach, savory bialys and more at Maven’s Delicatessen, a modern Jewish deli in the Blackstone Place plaza in Pawtucket.
(In Rhode Islandese, it’s the plaza where Garden Grille is located and where Barney’s Bagels used to be.)
It’s a passion project for owner Jason Sugarman, who has fond memories of visiting Wolfie Cohen’s Rascal House in Florida with his grandfather. He wanted to bring the same kind of authentic Jewish deli to Rhode Island and told his friend, acclaimed chef Jamie D’Oliveira, about his aspirations. Someday, he said, he’d like to open such a place.
“Why don’t you do it now?” asked D’Oliveira, the culinary force behind eateries like Red Stripe and Mill’s Tavern.
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So for the past two years, Sugarman and D’Oliveira — Maven’s culinary director — have been visiting delis in New York, sampling recipies, seeing what works and what doesn’t and rolling out a rich menu of classic Jewish delicacies and some new favorites with a twist.
Think items like pancakes and lox platters for breakfast; Reubens (on homemade rye, of course), hot dogs and hamburgers for lunch; and larger dinner items like seared salmon entrees followed up with homemade desserts like chocolate layer cake and carrot cake — a secret family recipe from executive chef and bakery director Scott Taylor’s family.
“This is my passion,” says Sugarman, who has past experience in running Johnny Rockets restaurants and at Pokeworks. “I’ve really wanted to do my own brand for a long time — it’s something I’m really passionate about.”
He wants the restaurant to feel warm and inviting — and for the mouthwatering aromas of fresh-roasted pastrami and just-baked black-and-white cookies to tempt customers as they walk in. The sleek interior has seating for 106 in the main dining area, around eighteen in a grab-and-go section near the entrance, and fifty in the back deck area.
The eatery will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner fare.
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While searching for a name for the restaurant, Sugarman sifted through hundreds of words in English, Hebrew and Yiddish before narrowing it down to five or six contenders. “Maven” — a skilled person — was his favorite.
“It’s a fun name,” he says. “It’s not too serious. People can see the meaning behind it and it makes sense.”
Looking ahead, Sugarman hopes to branch out, keeping the original outpost in Pawtucket but opening up smaller Maven’s throughout the state.
But for now, he’s just focused on opening day.
“I’m very excited,” he says. “I found the right spot near my home to open my dream concept.”
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