7 Hidden Gem Asian Restaurants in Rhode Island
Our February issue's "Where the Chefs Dine Out" feature led us to terrific dumplings, pho, noodles, ramen, banh mi and bibimbap.
Pork ramen at Pickerel. Photo by Jamie Coelho.
Rhode Island Monthly‘s “Where the Chefs Dine Out” feature is now on newsstands as the cover story in our February issue. For the past few months I’ve been out experiencing all the chefs’ recommendations while deciding which places to photograph. Now I am here to help spread the word about some of the best dishes I sampled along the way. From Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese to Thai and Japanese, here are some great restaurants to try.
Located inside the spot that used to be north and Big King, Pickerel is serving piping hot bowls of Japanese miso ramen on Mondays as well as special shoyu, tonkotsu and dashi broths stocked with chashu pork, noodles, scallions and whole soft boiled eggs. They also have vegetarian ramen often made with kombu and shiitake broth and seared tofu. Don’t skip dessert from the very special Millie Millie Ice Cream, churning out flavors like cocoa shiitake, barley brownie, vegan peanut butterscotch, and cream cheese ice cream with honey caramel and yuzu cake. 3 Luongo Square, Providence, instagram.com/pickerel_ri
Nearly half the chefs I interviewed mentioned Cheng Du Taste as an under-the-radar favorite for authentic Sichuan food. I’ve ordered takeout there twice before writing this feature, but I’ve never actually dined inside the restaurant. You can go either way, but if you dine in, the whole fish dishes are the way to go. The restaurant specializes in authentic Sichuan food, with flavors that deliver heat from hot red chili peppers like the notable Chongqing Chicken and the spicy pork cellophane noodles. Personally, I love the juicy soup dumplings (Shanghai little juicy pork buns) more than the regular steamed pork dumplings. The shrimp mei fun was very mild, almost too tame. When I asked the other chefs what to order, they recommended the dan dan noodles, cold sesame noodles, steamed eggplant and the double-cooked fish filet. 495 Smith St., Providence, 401-729-5699, chengdutasteonline.com
Chongqing chicken at Cheng Du Taste.
When I interviewed Bywater chef Luke Mersfelder, he said he got pho from Pho Horn’s five times in one month, and I can see why. I went for lunch one day, and for $15.95, I got a huge bowl of beef lemongrass pho with rice noodles and shrimp balls. The Vietnamese noodle soup was so prolific, it lasted me three days. Most bowls are only $12.95. Pho is pronounced “fuh,” by the way. I got takeout here years ago, but you really need to sit at a table and enjoy this steaming bowl of broth stocked with noodles, beef, seafood (sometimes tendon or tripe), and then you add fresh basil, bean sprouts and jalapeño. It’s exactly what you need to survive winter’s chill. 50 Ann Mary St., Pawtucket, 401-365-6278, phohornspawtucket.com
Beef lemongrass pho with shrimp balls at Pho Horn’s.
I’ve been told by many that the bibimbap with beef bulgogi is outstanding at the Ivy Tavern, which is owned by a Korean family. It took me years and years to finally try it, and I can’t believe I waited so long. While the Hope Street restaurant has a neighborhood pub-like atmosphere with burgers and craft beer on tap, it’s an open secret in the hospitality community that they have some of the best Korean food around. Yes, they serve traditional sandwiches, fish and chips and tacos, but it is the bibimbap topped with a fried egg that gets the nod from local chefs. The hot stone pot makes the rice extra crispy; just pour in some gochujang hot sauce and kimchi, mix it up with chopsticks and eat! You can also get the beef bulgogi inside tacos and on a sandwich. 758 Hope St., Providence, 401-421-4489, ivytavernri.com
Korean bibimbap at the Ivy Tavern
The search for good Thai food is over. One look at the menu told me I was in the right place with options that veered far away from ho-hum pad Thai and into seafood pad cha and curry territory. I headed straight to the specialty section for curry dishes with two chili pepper ratings. Always start with fresh rolls – nime chow — which are little rice paper rolls filled with lettuce, basil, vermicelli and shrimp served with peanut-hoisin sauce. All of the curry dishes – ranging from red, green, yellow and peanut massaman curry — are terrific, and if you like duck, go for the crispy basil duck with peppers, onions, mushrooms and basil with Thai bird’s eye chili sauce, or the pomegranate duck with pineapple, onions, carrots and scallions in pomegranate reduction sauce. Lim’s is also known for its Japanese sushi and sashimi, udon and yakisoba noodle dishes. 18 S. Angell St., Providence, 401-383-8340, limsprovidence.com
Sun and Moon has been one of my favorite restaurants for ages, and several chefs mentioned it, too. It’s been open since 2002, and I’m giving it some love for the steamed veggie dumplings, perfectly pinched and served in a bamboo basket. I also love how they present snacks at the beginning of every meal, including kimchi, pickled cucumbers and bean sprouts that you can add to any dish or just eat on their own. The Korean-style chicken wings are smothered in a sweet and garlic sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds, and the toothsome, savory sweet potato noodles are outstanding too. This is another great restaurant for Korean bibimbap, which is delivered to tables sizzling hot in a stone pot with a gooey fried egg on top. 95 Warren Ave., East Providence, 401-435-0214, sunandmoonkorean.com
Steamed vegetable dumplings at Sun and Moon.
All the chefs want street cred for discovering Asian Bakery, but the secret is already out. The best spot for Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches is located on Broad Street in Providence. Banh means bread in Vietnamese, and French colonists reportedly introduced Vietnam to the baguette. Asian Bakery’s hefty sammy is made with the crustiest of French baguettes, stuffed with your choice of meat — we recommend the traditional pork slice, though you can get mainstream barbecue pork or chicken teriyaki — along with shoestring-style raw carrot, cucumber and radish slices. The finishing touch is sweet mayo that offers a flavor contrast to the pork’s umami along with fresh cilantro, and jalapenos if you want ’em. Eat this crunchy creation outside with your elbows perched on your knees to avoid leaving a blanket of crumbs all over your lap. We repeat: It’s not for the desk jockeys. 310 Broad St., Providence, 401-497-6145
The pork banh mi at Asian Bakery.
