Q-and-A: Mike Lester of the Newly Opened French Bistro Mémère’s
Neptune (formerly the Dean) opened its ground level restaurant with the legendary Providence proprietor at the helm.
The interior of Memere’s. Photo by Holly Dalton.
Michael Lester, formerly of the legendary The Dorrance, is back on the Providence dining scene with the recent opening of Mémère’s inside the newly rebranded Neptune hotel (formerly the Dean). The restaurant is located in the former north space, and is inspired by Lester’s French-Canadian grandmother. The menu delivers French food with a Quebecois twist — or, in Lester’s words, “Montreal during the week and Paris on the weekends.”
Peek inside Providence’s newest French bistro from Lester and his wife, Regina. Nestled in the corner of the Neptune, Mémère’s @memeresri, is an intimate and cozy restaurant with white table cloth and candlelit service, a baby grand piano bedecked with a lacy white tablecloth, a fresh floral arrangement and antique toy puppets, and its own martini and wine bar. Go through the main hotel entrance and toward the back of the lobby, where you will follow signs for Mémère’s and enter through the side door labeled “Bar.” The view from the top of the stairs looks down into the dining room, with an elevated view into the kitchen. Take in the vintage mosaic tile floors, dark wood accents, embroidered rugs, and red velvet and upholstered banquettes. Linger with bubbles at the bar.
A view from the stairs at Memere’s.
Once seated for dinner, order several starters, including foie gras with kumquat, beef tartare and seafood rillette, followed by a lighter soup or salad. Main courses include the duck, coq au vin (a French stew of braised chicken, red wine, mushrooms and bacon lardons) and poisson (white fish in a rich sauce). Don’t skip dessert, made by Regina Lester. We tried the lemon tart and creme brulee, but we hear the cheesecake is not to be missed. It would be wise to end the meal with a little French martini mixed with a housemade berry cordial and pineapple, and if you’re nice, you might even earn a deck of Mémère’s-branded playing cards.
Here’s a previous q-and-a with Mike Lester, founder of Mémère’s, that took place before the opening:
1. What is the personal story behind Mémère’s?
Mémère’s is rooted in the family values and heartfelt hospitality passed down from my “Greats & Grands” — parents, aunts, uncles, siblings, cousins and family friends. My grandmother, mémère, grew up in Dexter, Maine, with her twelve siblings. Many of them moved to Rhode Island in the 1950s, bringing with them a deep joie de vivre and a mix of New England and French-Canadian traditions. For me, the table was everything. Meals weren’t just food — they were rituals of grace, gratitude and connection. There were only two rules: no politics and no religion. The table was a sanctuary lit by candles, filled with conversation, laughter and card games that sometimes lasted for weeks. Mémère’s is our way of honoring that legacy — a restaurant built on nostalgia, genuine hospitality and a “make it special” mentality.
2. What are some of the dishes on the French Canadian-focused menu?
The menu blends New England ingredients with the warmth of my wife Regina’s home cooking [with chef consultant Peter Eco at the helm in the kitchen]. We’re creating a program that is both seasonal and approachable, with plenty of vegetarian and pescatarian options. Highlights include French onion soup made with local, grass-fed beef bones and rich short rib — or a miso-based vegetarian option; seasonal soupes du jour, salads and quiches; plateau de fruits de mer, featured on “Mer-Crudi Mercredi”; tourtière pie [coming soon], with a Sunday cook-off to settle whose family recipe reigns supreme; seasonal pâtés and terrines; foie gras poutine with hand-cut fries and rich demi-glace; vol-au-vent with escargots and duxelles; Rhode Island seafood casserole and tableside bouillabaisse; vegetarian shepherd’s pie with mushroom gravy; coq au vin with pommes purées; steak frites au poivre; and crème brûlées, savory and sweet soufflés and nostalgic sundaes. Guests can also expect a house-baked bread program, curated cheese and charcuterie boards, a dim sum–style dessert wine and digestif cart, and family-style Sunday Suppers.
Beef tartare at Memere’s.
3. Describe the atmosphere and how you hope people will feel coming into the restaurant.
We’ve designed Mémère’s to feel like a Belle Époque bistro tucked inside a 1912 hotel. Think butter-colored walls, dark wood paneling, vintage tile floors, candlelight and a baby grand piano. The space is meant to feel cinematic and intimate — whether you’re dropping in for a quick martini or settling in for a long meal. Expect a Casablanca-inspired martini bar, an interactive chef’s counter, cozy banquettes and “Flowers by Regina.” Table-side service is central — warm, intentional and personal — so the experience feels different each time you visit.
4. How will the cocktails compare to the legendary Dorrance bar program?
The bar program is an evolution of what we built at The Dorrance — craft-driven, technique-forward, but with a spirit of fun. The Mémère’s Petit Bar will be a Champagne and martini destination with approachable crémants and prestige cuvées; think sparkling wine bar with gin-joint energy, complete with martinis and playful hors d’oeuvres. The Neptune Bar is a sexy, moody speakeasy serving yacht-rock-meets-jazz-funk vibes with elevated bar snacks, and The Café serves as a stand-up Italian espresso and amaro bar, offering patisserie in the mornings, plus seasonal riffs on classics, zero-proof cocktails, fresh-pressed juices, small-batch spirits and nostalgic nods to hotel bar traditions.
The interior of Memere’s. Photo by Holly Dalton.
5. What other new changes can guests expect at Neptune?
We’ve created a layered experience that flows from morning to night, including morning espresso, pastries and restorative café drinks, and bistro dining, Champagne and martinis at Mémère’s, plus a moody late-night speakeasy vibe at Neptune Bar. Analise and our friends at The Boombox also feature karaoke with great cocktails and sake. Guests can start with a cappuccino, stay for dinner, sing karaoke, sip a nightcap, and retreat upstairs — all in one rhythm.
Sippers and cocktails include a non-alcoholic kombucha on the left and the Apricot Velours on the right, made with Citadelle gin, citrus, housemade apricot cordial, vanilla, egg white, cardamom and saffron, created by beverage consultant Ryan Draine.
6. How are you feeling about your big return to Providence?
Providence has always been a cornerstone of my hospitality journey, and opening Mémère’s in this landmark space feels like a homecoming. I love this neighborhood — it’s one of the most walkable, cultural corners of the city. Reconnecting with the community, seeing familiar faces and introducing something rooted in family and nostalgia has been a gift. With Mémère’s, Neptune Bar and the café, we’re building a rhythm for locals and travelers alike — a space where every detail is designed to feel special.
Dessert at Memere’s includes creme brulee with fresh berries and a lemon tart.
