A to Z Guide to Food in Rhode Island

Eat your way through the Ocean State, from Allie’s Donuts to zeppole.
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Clam cakes and chowder from Aunt Carrie’s in Narragansett. Photograph courtesy of Aunt Carrie’s.

Edited by Jamie Coelho with Edelinda Baptista, Lauren Clem, Dana Laverty, Kaitlyn Murray, Tabitha Pereira and Jamie Samons; Photography by Angel Tucker

~ A ~

Allie’s Donuts

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Photography courtesy of Allie’s Donuts

Allie’s Donuts started serving simple yeasted and glazed, frosted and filled doughnuts more than fifty-six years ago. Before opening the beloved bakery in 1968, Frederick Alvin “Allie” Briggs and his wife, Lucile, had seven kids and he was working three jobs to make ends meet. His favorite job — aside from delivering milk and hay as a farmer — was making doughnuts for a baker out of Wakefield, but he wanted to open a shop of his own. One day, he was so tired that he pulled over in a parking lot to take a nap. The street was so busy, he couldn’t doze off. He chose that same location to open Allie’s Donuts, and it’s been selling doughnuts like
hot cakes ever since.

Little-known Fact: It takes about four hours from start to finish to make a single doughnut. 3661 Quaker Ln., North Kingstown, 295-8036, facebook.com/alliesdonuts —Jamie Coelho

Angelo’s

Classic Italian red sauce is what Angelo’s is all about. The portions are big, the prices are cheap and the focus is on family. It’s been that way for 100 years, and it will always be that way. Dig into a heaping plate of chicken Parmesan or slow-cooked veal and peppers. Everyone feels like friends and family at Angelo’s, whether you’re Italian or just wishing you were. The dining room seats multiple generations, politicians and power players, and families taking in the train set chugging along the ceiling. Historical photos decorate the walls and the original menu board still dominates the middle of the dining room, complete with changeable letters. The fourth-generation restaurant hasn’t changed much on the Classics menu since 1924. Favorites are the chicken Parm and good old meatballs served with fries instead of pasta for an even better way to soak up housemade gravy. During the Great Depression, the original owner, Angelo Mastrodicasa, invited folks who were in need to come eat and added fries to their plates to help tide them over to their next meal. The tradition continues today.

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Angelo’s owner Jamie Antignano celebrates the restaurant’s 100th birthday. Photography by Angel Tucker

“For a business to survive twenty-five years, let alone a hundred, is a complete unknown phenomenon, and it is something worth celebrating,” says Angelo’s owner Jamie Antignano.

At Angelo’s 100th birthday party, we interviewed some of the beloved restaurant’s regulars and asked them to tell their favorite stories about the Federal Hill institution.

Brendan Doherty, former Rhode Island State Police superintendent: I’ve been coming here for forty years. I love this restaurant, the history and the culture. I was a detective in the state police, and I would come here with other detectives and political figures. One day, Colonel Stone, the legendary superintendent of the state police at the time, had a fugitive on the loose in Rhode Island. He was originally from Rhode Island, but he was on the lam and left the state. Colonel Stone had information that he was back in town and I was assigned with another detective, Louis, to find this guy. We shot out to a couple of his known haunts, but he was clever and he wasn’t going to hang out at his usual social club, because he knew we’d be looking for him.

After three hours of looking for him, we came up on the Hill and my favorite restaurant was Angelo’s. We were under a lot of pressure, because the boss wanted this guy today, so I said to my partner, Louis, “Why don’t we go to Angelo’s and have something to eat?” I had never seen this guy, but I had a picture of him. I ordered my favorite, veal Parmesan, and I was looking at the line gathering outside the restaurant. I saw a guy in line, and I said to Lou, “The guy we’re looking for is standing in line right there.”

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Angelo’s interior. Photography by Angel Tucker.

All roads lead to Angelo’s.

So the guy sat down. We had already ordered. So we had a decision to make. We certainly didn’t want to cause a scene. I came up with a plan. We’ll give the fugitive the option.

He sat down. I sat next to him. I knew he knew my name, but he didn’t know who I was. We were wearing plain clothes, so nothing gave it away. We had never seen each other.

I moved his knife and fork over and I said, “You’re so-and-so, right?”

He said, “Yea, how do I know you?”

I said, “I’m Brendan Doherty.” He said, “Oh, my God. What’s this mean?”

I said, “Here’s what it means.” I said, “You can eat your meal with us, and we can all walk out of here like gentlemen after we eat, or if you want to be placed under arrest, it’ll have to happen now. But I prefer that not happening.”

He thought about it for a second, and he said, “Does that mean I have to eat with you guys?”

I said, “It does.”

He said, “Do I have to talk to you?”

I said, “No, you don’t have to talk at all.”

So he came over and sat with me, and we had lunch together. He had his veal Parm. I had my veal Parm, and we walked out of there like gentlemen, no handcuffs or anything, and that was it.

For more stories, go to rimonthly.com/angelos-regulars. 141 Atwells Ave., Providence, 621-8171, angelosri.com —J.C. 

Autocrat

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Photograph courtesy of Autocrat Coffee Syrup.

Autocrat played a role in the growth of the Starbucks Frappuccino. In 1992, coffee pioneer George Howell was looking for a way to lure customers into his Coffee Connection shop in Cambridge’s Harvard Square during the hot weather months. Knowing that iced coffee was so popular in New England, Howell and staff came up with an iced cappuccino using Autocrat coffee syrup and named it Frappuccino. The drink took off like wildfire. When Seattle-based Starbucks wanted to enter the New England market, they bought up all twenty-three Coffee Connection locations from Howell in 1994 as well as the rights to the Frappuccino name. Autocrat made Frappuccino for Starbucks for many years until the coffee giant changed its formula.

Little-known Fact: Starbucks’ success helped Autocrat see the potential in the extracts side of the business. Autocrat is now rebranded as an extracts business, owned by the British tea company, Finlays. Autocrat coffee syrup is just one of its many products. —J.C.

Awful Awful

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Photograph courtesy of Newport Creamery.

“It’s awful big and awful good” is the phrase that gave this ice milk drink its fateful moniker. But did you know it’s connected to the Friendly’s Fribble? It’s made with a blended combination of flavored syrup, milk and a secret frozen ice milk mix. The story goes that the drink originated at a New Jersey chain called Bond’s. Friendly (before it added the “s” to its name) and Newport Creamery picked up the recipe and the drink’s popularity grew throughout New England. But Bond’s mandated that if they went into New Jersey territory then they would have to change the name of the drink. As Friendly’s expanded beyond New England, it agreed to abandon the name and rebrand it as “Fribble.” Then when Bond’s went out of business, Newport Creamery swooped in to buy the trademark. The Awful Awful lives on forevermore at Newport Creamery, which is delightful, delightful. 

Little-known Fact: Try the Awful Awful challenge. Drink three and get the fourth one free (must be in one visit)! Newport Creamery, various locations, newportcreamery.com —J.C.

 

 

~ B ~

Burgers at Stanley’s

Stanley’s Famous Hamburgers was opened in 1932 by Stanley Kryla, with the mission of making a delicious, affordable hamburger. It was a concept that caught on in the Depression and has continued as generations of Rhode Islanders have made their way to the Dexter Street outpost for a Stanleyburger. The patties are smashed flat and served with sliced pickles. While the original Stanleyburger is a compelling reason to visit, don’t miss the Quebec-style fries, Stanley’s take on gravy-doused poutine, subbing mozzarella for the traditional cheese curds, or a gullet-cooling coffee shake. 535 Dexter St., Central Falls, 726-9689 —Jamie Samons

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Have a burger at Stanley’s. Photography by Angel Tucker

 

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Calamari

The official state appetizer of Rhode Island is lightly fried calamari topped with banana peppers, cherry tomatoes, parsley and a touch of extra virgin olive oil. You can find it on menus from the Ocean State all the way to California. Former Governor Lincoln Chafee signed the state appetizer bill into legislation in 2014 at Town Dock in Galilee, the largest supplier of calamari in the United States. Warwick State Representative Joseph McNamara and South Kingstown Senator V. Susan Sosnowski first submitted the bill to help promote the squid-fishing industry. When cod landings declined due to overfishing and climate change, Ocean State fishermen adapted their fleet to fish for one of the most sustainable species in the ocean, which is squid. Longfin squid is Rhode Island’s top-landed fish, with 25.3 million pounds gathered in 2022, valued at more than $37 million. 

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Photograph courtesy of Town Dock.

Little-known Fact: The founder of Town Dock, Noah Clark, abandoned his music career to clean fish in order to support his family in 1980. The business that started at the town’s public dock in Wickford is now known worldwide for its calamari. towndock.com —J.C.

Clam Cakes and Chowder

Beach days in my family always followed the same script. Early on a Saturday morning, we’d pile into the car and make the long trek down from northern Rhode Island, fighting traffic all the way. After a few hours hunting crabs and starfish at Point Judith, we’d settle in for the day at Scarborough or East Matunuck, wearing our boogie boards out on the relentless waves. But the real treat came after we’d washed the sand from our flip-flops. Rounding the corner on Ocean Road, you could smell the clam cakes frying at Aunt Carrie’s before you saw them. Just one bite of salty, greasy goodness — filled with chewy clams and dunked in chowder now dripping down my chin — and I’m back at those green picnic tables, sunburned and happy and ready for the long ride home. 

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Little-known Fact: Aunt Carrie’s is the original clam shack in Rhode Island — it opened in 1920. The shop celebrates its 124th anniversary this year. 1240 Ocean Rd., Narragansett, 783-7930, auntcarriesri.com —Lauren Clem

Coffee Milk

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Photograph courtesy of NY SYSTEM.

Even though I was born and raised in Massachusetts, there was always a tan, plastic squeeze bottle of Eclipse coffee syrup in our kitchen. My family was undecided if it should go in the fridge or the cabinet. Its location was always up for debate between me and my dad, the only ones who drank coffee milk in our household. Eclipse was founded in Warwick, but my dad drank it as a kid growing up in Amesbury, Massachusetts. My grandparents — Meme and Pepe — grew up during the Great Depression. They never threw anything away. I remember being in their bathroom in the 1990s and seeing cans of Aqua Net hairspray and Suave shampoo from the 1960s still on their shelves. It was like a museum of American products and retired logos. As a kid, I looked in their pantry one day and found a glass bottle of Eclipse coffee syrup, with the elixir preserved as a rock-hard relic and symbol of a time when things were taken for granted, then taken away. One day, all their kids moved away, and no one was left to finish the bottle. —J.C. 

 

~ D ~

Delekta’s

Speaking of cabinets, Delekta’s in Warren is the originator of the Rhode Island-centric drink, the coffee cabinet. Delekta’s became a neighborhood pharmacy in 1858, and Ignatius Delekta took over ownership in the 1940s. He was also the one who developed the proprietary coffee syrup recipe. A cabinet is made up of two scoops of ice cream, a cup of milk, and a few squirts of Delekta’s coffee syrup. Ignatius’s grandson, Eric Delekta, at right, started working there in 1988. While it’s no longer a pharmacy, he continues to operate it as a soda fountain and gift shop, serving about 200 cabinets a week in the summer. Century-old bottles of tinctures and medicines and faded photographs still line the walls, but now they sell gifts from local makers as well as pet products. 496 Main St., Warren, 245-6767, instagram.com/delektaswarren —J.C.

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Delekata’s counter. Photography by Angel Tucker

Dynamite

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The writer’s grandmother
and grandfather upon their engagement in 1952. Courtesy of Lauren Clem

It may look like a sloppy joe, but this sandwich packs the heat. Unique to Woonsocket, the sweet and spicy concoction of ground beef, tomato sauce, red pepper, onions, peppers and sometimes celery served on a torpedo roll is the dish of choice to feed a crowd. Though it’s rarely seen on restaurant menus, beer-and-dynamite suppers are a staple of the local fundraising circuit, particularly during election season. This recipe, from my grandmother’s cookbook, is served on Christmas for the family:  

2 pounds green peppers, chopped (about six)

2 pounds onions, chopped (about four medium)

1 pound ground beef

2 14-ounce cans tomato sauce

Red pepper

Chili powder

Paprika

Salt and pepper

Fry the green peppers, onions and ground beef in a large saucepan or Dutch oven on medium heat. Stir in the tomato sauce. Add the red pepper, chili powder, paprika, salt and pepper to taste. Pile on torpedo rolls. If serving at a gathering, keep the dynamite filling warm (and allow the flavors to meld together) in a large crockpot. —L.C. 

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Photograph by Lauren Clem

~ E ~

Eggs

Baffoni’s Poultry Farm has supplied Ocean Staters with the main ingredients for omelets since 1935. Those protein-rich eggs make their way to local restaurants like Nicks on Broadway and Bayberry Garden, or they’re stacked in crates on Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s Market Mobile and transported to locations across the state. Pick up a dozen at the on-site shop at the farm, or at Eastside Marketplace, Quality Fruitland and other locations. 324 Greenville Ave., Johnston, 231-6315, baffonispoultryfarm.com 

White Hen Isolated.

Photograph via Getty Images

BY THE NUMBERS:
Number of chickens: 25,000
Flocks: 4
Laying hens: 5,000
Daily dozens: 350
Dozens per week: 3,000
—J.C.

 ~ F ~ 

Federal Hill

Federal Hill is known as Providence’s own Little Italy, but over the years it has branched out to include more multicultural cuisine including Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Lebanese and vegan food. Our timeline documents the evolution of the neighborhood.

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Photograph courtesy of Providence Public Library digital archives/postcard collection

1853 Antonelli’s Poultry opened in the same spot where it resides now, with hardly any changes. Shop here for the freshest (read: still breathing) poultry money can buy.
1898 Gasbarro’s was founded by Antonio Gasbarro, the great-grandfather of current owner, Mark
Gasbarro, and specializes in wines from around the world.
1914 Camille’s is a dining landmark that was originally located at 174 Atwells Ave. It moved to the mansion at its current location in 1919 and expanded in 1926.
1916 Luigi Scialo arrived from Italy and started Scialo Bros. Bakery with his brother. Luigi ran the family business until his death in 1993. Then Luigi’s daughters, Lois (Scialo) Ellis and Carol (Scialo) Gaeta ran the bakery until Lois passed away. It almost closed for good during the COVID-19
pandemic, but a private owner bought and saved the business.
1924 Established in 1924 by Angelo Mastrodicasa, Angelo’s recently celebrated its 100th birthday.
1938 Costantino’s Venda Ravioli was established in 1938, making the finest hand-pressed ravioli.
1952 Tony’s Colonial procures imported and
domestic Italian foods, including meat, cheese,
olive oils, pasta and more.
1953 Caserta’s serves traditional Italian pan pizza and the famous Wimpy Skippy, a spinach pie stuffed with mozzarella, pepperoni and black olives.

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Joe Marzilli’s Old Canteen opened in 1956. Photography by Angel Tucker

1956 Joe Marzilli’s Old Canteen has been family operated since 1956 and the rose walls remain the same.
1983 Via Roma opens, followed by the banquet room in 1995.
1983 After years of creating homemade desserts for restaurants, Eileen Collins and Brandt Heckert open Pastiche bakery.
1988 Andy Merola launches Andino’s as a social club. Saturday nights were formal nights out
followed by Sunday family day with gravy, macaroni and meatballs.
1988 Cassarino’s has served northern Italian dishes for thirty-six years.
2000 Don Jose Tequilas breaks up Italian
monotony with Mexican fare.
2003 Opa Mediterranean restaurant opens with Lebanese, Greek and Italian food.
2008 Nara opens as Federal Hill’s first hookah lounge.
2013 Nami Japanese restaurant arrives in early 2013.
2014 Harry’s on the Hill opens a second location serving its terrific burgers.
2019 The Royal Bobcat opens as a New Orleans-themed cocktail bar inside the former Lili Marlene’s.
2022 PiANTA opens as the Hill’s first plant-based, woman-owned restaurant.
2024 Cafe Italia opens as a day-to-night coffee and cocktail dessert bar. —J.C.

 

~ G ~

Gregg’s Death by Chocolate Cake

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Photograph courtesy of Gregg’s

Every family party in the 2000s was blessed with the presence of Death by Chocolate Cake from Gregg’s. The first time I saw the cake as a child, I was stunned by the frosting dusted with chocolate morsels and buttercream spirals, and the six layers of rich cake drew me in even more. As I waited to get my hands on a slice, I detected my mother’s disapproval of me ingesting this high-calorie dessert. I instantly began plotting — there was no way I was returning home without finding out how rich and decadent this treat tasted. I recruited one of my younger cousins to nab a slice for me and hand it over discreetly. My heart pounded as I prepared to commit the ultimate sin of indulgence, but once I took a bite of chocolate heaven, it was worth dying for. greggsusa.com —Edelinda Baptista

Grilled Pizza

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Credited with inventing the grilled pizza, Al Forno’s version is irregularly shaped and fired directly on the hardwood charcoal-fired grill. The dough is mixed using all-purpose flour that holds up to the heat and, in its raw form, is soaked in light olive oil to prevent sticking. This creates the crackly, chewy crust synonymous with Al Forno’s signature pie. The technique was developed in the early 1980s by co-owners Johanne Killeen and George Germon, who first attempted the method after a business associate praised a grilled pizza he had in Italy. There’s always the signature margarita with two cheeses, tomatoes, herbs and peppery olive oil, and we also look forward to the seasonal versions, including a summery corn variety and the special-edition calamari with crisp, fried squid rings and tentacles on a base of spicy tomato and red chili arrabiata sauce with melted pecorino Romano and fontina cheeses. 

Little-known Fact:
Al Forno’s signature sliced scallions top every pie. 577 South Water St., Providence, 273-9760, alforno.com —J.C.

Grinders at Riccotti’s

Growing up, the beach of choice for my family was Second Beach. We’d pack a cooler full of grapes, potato chips, cans of Stop & Shop soda (sarsaparilla and cola, IYKYK) and — most importantly — salami and cheese grinders from the Riccotti’s at the top of our street. They still remind me of summer days playing in the sand: the fluffy, slightly chewy bread, slices of salami and provolone cheese, tomatoes, shredded iceberg lettuce, pickles and oil and vinegar splashed on top. Even though I’m a vegetarian, I allow myself a grinder once a year. Four Riccotti’s locations remain in the Ocean State: in Bristol, Johnston, North Providence and West Warwick.

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Photograph courtesy of Riccotti’s

Little-known Fact: Riccotti’s is a portmanteau of Ricky and Scotty, nephews of the original owners. riccottis.com, riccottisjohnston.com —Dana Laverty

 

~ H ~

Haven Brothers Diner

Haven Brothers was launched as a horse-drawn lunch cart in 1893 at the corner of Dorrance and Washington streets by widowed immigrant Anna Coffey Haven. The concept evolved over time, but Haven Brothers is still the best example of what originally started as a mobile food business. The diner on wheels is driven daily from a commissary to 25 Dorrance St. near Providence City Hall, and back at the end of the night. The famous diner is even detailed in a documentary called The Original Food Truck. It went through various Haven family members, and eventually was sold to Savero Giusti and Jack Ferry in 1986. The Giusti family still operates it. Visitors come from all walks of life, biting into Murder Burgers — flat-top grilled patties piled high with lettuce, tomato, bacon and a fried egg (make it a triple with three patties) — as well as loaded french fries. 

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Little-known Fact: “If you tell your friends, ‘Meet me at the aluminum room,’ you’re a true local and long-term patron of Haven Brothers Diner,” says owner Patrizia Prew. 25 Dorrance St., Providence, 862-6703, havenbrothersmobile.com —J.C.

 

~ I ~

Iggy’s Doughboys & Chowder House

Beach day essentials in Rhode Island include clam cakes and chowder (New England-style or quahog-based Rhode Island-style, the choice is up to you). No beach day is complete without a trip to Iggy’s, a seafood shack
and chowder house staple since 1989 with locations in Narragansett and Warwick. Make sure to get some doughboys, or better yet, a doughboy sundae from the Warwick restaurant for an extra-large sweet treat. 

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Photograph courtesy of Iggy’s Doughboys and Chowder House

Little-known Fact: The name Iggy’s came from the nickname of the original owner, Gaetano Gravino. He was known as Ig from his license plate, IG-6. 889 Oakland Beach Ave., Warwick, 737-9459; 1151 Point Judith Rd., Narragansett, 783-5608, iggysri.com —Tabitha Pereira

 

~ J ~

Johnny Cakes

Native Americans ground corn into meal, mixed it with a little water, and voila. An icon was born. Settlers called them “journey cakes” since they took them on their travels, according to Kenyon’s Grist Mill, which has been crafting genuine johnny cake meal since way back in 1696. Many purists like to eat them without syrup, but I like them with a little butter and a touch of maple syrup. I love them at Jigger’s Diner, lacy and golden on the outside with just a bit of give on the inside. A truly timeless taste. jiggersdiner.com —D.L.

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Photograph via Getty Images

 

~ K ~

Kenyon’s Grist Mill

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Courtesy of Kenyon’s Grist Mil.

Speaking of Johnny Cakes, a special kind of flour is necessary to make them. Stoneground flint corn flour is the key, and Kenyon’s Grist Mill in West Kingston is one of the last places that produces it the old-fashioned way. The circa-1886 grist mill is equipped with the original granite millstones that were quarried from Westerly. Huge stones grind grain berries and corn kernels into flour and meal while preserving nutrients and flavor. The mill produces pancake mixes, corn muffin mix, bread mixes and other meals and flours, but it’s  best known for its Johnny Cake Meal and Clam Cake Mix, which can be purchased by retail at the mill and in stores. 

Little-known Fact: The Drumm family has owned and operated the mill for more than fifty years. Starting with Paul Drumm Jr. in 1971, then Paul Drumm III, and now Benjamin Drumm, who runs the mill with his father, the third-generation owner. 21 Glen Rock Rd., West Kingston, 783-4054, kenyonsgristmill.com —J.C.

 

~ L ~

Lemonade

Over April vacation, I brought my son and his friend to the newly spruced up Del’s Depot lemonade stand in Warren for their first one of the season. Each ordered a half-and-half raspberry and watermelon Del’s, though I’m partial to lemon with lemon chunks. As the cashier handed their heaping cups through the side window, adjacent to the East Bay Bike Path, we ventured away to take in the vibrant mural painted on the side of the building. At that point, the kids insisted they needed straws. To which I shouted “Blasphemy!” Then I taught them a lesson they’ll never forget. I said, “Hold the cup up to your face and squeeze the ice into your mouth, warming the sides of the cup with your hand.” Show a kid; save a straw over a lifetime of Del’s devotion. Various locations, dels.com —J.C.

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Photography by Angel Tucker

 

~ M ~

Mudslide on Block Island

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Known for its towering bluffs, it’s only fitting that Block Island would claim the mudslide — aka a frozen blend of vodka, coffee liqueur, Irish cream and heavy cream — as its unofficial cocktail. While you can find some variation on almost any menu throughout the island, the Oar’s recipe is (in)famous. Which is why it was one of the first stops my friends and I made after stepping off the ferry as newly minted twenty-one-year-olds. While most of that trip remains hazy, those first precious sips beneath hundreds of hanging oars are not. The Oar’s mudslide is almost as dangerous as the natural phenomenon for which it’s named. 221 Jobs Hill Rd., New Shoreham, 466-8820, blockislandresorts.com/dining-item/the-oar —Kaitlyn Murray

 

~ N ~ 

Narragansett Beer

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Photograph courtesy of Narragansett Beer

Founded in Cranston in 1890, Narragansett Beer made a comeback with the return of its cult-favorite lager in early 2005 thanks to lifelong Rhode Islander Mark Hellendrung and a group of New England investors. As it became more involved in the craft beer scene, pumping out quirky Rhode Island-themed brews from the “I Am Providence” Lovecraft series to the Del’s Shandy, Narragansett Beer has created more boutique-style recipes in its own Providence brewery since 2021. Now we can crack open beers that are born and raised and produced in the state that loves it the most. narragansettbeer.com —J.C.

Nordic Lodge

A buffet fit for a king. All-you-can-eat lobsters, Black Angus prime rib and filet mignon, baked stuffed shrimp, scallops wrapped in bacon, local oysters, the list goes on. At $135 per adult, $60 for kids ages eight to twelve and $35 for ages three to seven, there’s a two-hour time limit. Ding, ding. Game on. 178 Nordic Trail, Charlestown, 783-4515, nordiclodge.com —J.C.

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Photograph by Angel Tucker

 

New York System

Olneyville’s the name of the game here, but as a kid growing up in Woonsocket, the late-night beacon was a bit far afield for our casual wiener runs. Instead, we sidled up to the counter at Moonlight or New York Lunch, washing it all down with tall glasses of coffee milk. Wiener joints were Dad’s territory — Mom, for reasons unknown, turned her nose up at the onion-scented delicacy — and more than one Saturday lunch was spent marveling at the chef’s antics as they balanced a dozen or more up the arm. The prices have ticked up, but everything else remains the same: At greasy spoons around the state, three all the way arrive loaded with mustard, onions, meat sauce and celery salt, and we wouldn’t have it any other way. 

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Photograph courtesy of New York System

Little-known Fact: The Original New York System (now Baba’s Original New York System) on Smith Street claims to have invented the hot wiener in 1927. Olneyville New York System came along in 1946 and has been churning out the Rhode Island delicacy ever since. Baba’s, 424 Smith St., Providence, 331-5349, babasoriginalnewyorksystem.com; Olneyville New York System, 18 Plainfield St., Providence, 621-9500; 1012 Reservoir Ave., Cranston, 437-8248, olneyvillenewyorksystem.com —L.C.

 

~ O ~

Olympia Tea Room

A cornerstone of Watch Hill since 1916, the restaurant is open late April through late fall, and features a bistro-style menu including New England seafood alongside harbor views. The restaurant was opened by a Greek family — Michael, Theodore and Speros Tramis — who ran it through the seventies until Jack and Marcia Felber bought it in 1980. Now their daughter, Georgia, runs it. Make a day trip out of it with a visit to the Flying Horse Carousel. 74 Bay St., Watch Hill, 348-8211, olympiatearoom.com —J.C.

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Photograph courtesy of the Olympia Tea Room

 

Original Italian Bakery

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Photography by Angel tucker

This fourth-generation Italian bakery was started by Don DePetrillo, who began baking in 1967 for his own business, DePetrillo’s Pizza and Bakery, which eventually expanded into nine locations. He consistently turned out some of the best breads, pizza, calzones and pastry in Rhode Island. The Original Italian Bakery opened in 2007 and while it serves up terrific pizza strips, it is best known for its pizza chips, small rounds of dough topped with red sauce and a dusting of Romano cheese. Other variations include white (garlic and Parmesan), jalapeno and bacon, and potato and cheese.

Little-known Fact: Before becoming a baker, DePetrillo earned a degree in aeronautical engineering from Wentworth Institute of Technology. 915 Atwood Ave., Johnston, 919-5777, theoriginalitalianbakery.com —J.C.

 

~ P ~

Pizza Strips

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Photography by Angel Tucker

These room-temperature slabs of goodness were born out of necessity. Back in the day, bakeries made pizzas from leftover bread dough and left them on the counters for folks to buy. But the Health Department didn’t take kindly to having dairy sitting out all day, so many places cut out the cheese entirely. You can bring the familiar white box full of strips anywhere — a birthday party, a barbecue, picnics, the beach — and you’ll be heralded like the hero you are.

Little-known Fact: Rhode Island Monthly staffers held a very scientific* pizza strip taste test in early 2022. The winner, based on appearance, crust and sauce, was D. Palmieri’s Bakery in Johnston. —D.L.

*OK, it wasn’t very scientific. But it was delicious.

 

~ Q ~

Quahogs

Clamming 101: It’s every Rhode Islander’s state right to dig clams. Residents don’t need a license to go quahogging, but you should bring an ID for verification. Residents can take a half-bushel of quahogs from nonmanagement areas and one peck of quahogs from management areas. Areas with strict harvesting rules are called shellfish management areas, while those without are called nonshellfish management areas. The rules are that harvested shellfish cannot be sold, and you can only go out clamming between sunrise and sunset. Check the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management’s Office of Water Resources website for water quality-related shellfish area closures or call 222-2900 for DEM’s twenty-four-hour closure hotline. —J.C.

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Photography by Angel Tucker

 

~ R ~

Rocky Point Shore Dinner

I am fifty-two years old and still miss Rocky Point. We’d go every summer, starting the day with chowder and clam cakes on the rock wall overlooking the water or inside the Shore Dinner Hall (RIP). The interior seemed to go on forever — like a huge airplane hangar — with enormous, communal-style tables filled with families sitting cheek by jowl. The chowder came out in steaming silver tureens, followed by clam cakes, steamed clams, corn on the cob and sweet slices of watermelon. Alas, our beloved amusement park may be gone, but you can still order up some sweet nostalgia — minus the Flume — with Aunt Carrie’s shore dinner: clam chowder, clam cakes, steamed clams with drawn butter, fried flounder, french fries, coleslaw and dessert. All with a fresh lobster, if you wish. 1240 Ocean Rd., Narragansett, 783-7930, auntcarriesri.com

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Photograph courtesy of “You must be this tall” collection/David Bettencourt.

Little-known Fact: At one time, the Rocky Point Shore Dinner Hall was the largest in the world, able to serve 4,000 patrons at a time. —D.L.

 

~ S ~

Stuffies

Either you loved or hated the idea of seven-foot fiberglass replica stuffies that were displayed at select airports across the country as part of a Rhode Island state tourism campaign. Either way, stuffies are ingrained in our souls. But not all of us want to take the time to cook them at home. Cheryl Ursillo realized that fact and decided to take her mom’s stuffie recipe and make the stuffed clams available for everyone to enjoy. The stuffies — full of bay scallops, clams and ground pepperoni with breadcrumbs to hold it all together — are frozen and sold in four-packs at local markets including Shore’s Market, Neapolis, Munroe Dairy, Confreda Farms, Market Basket, Clements’ Marketplace, Roch’s Markets and more. gracesstuffies.com

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Local littlenecks and stuffies from George’s of Galilee. photography by Angel Tucker

Little-known Fact: The last airport stuffie is now retired. Its last stop was at LAX airport in Los Angeles. From there, it traveled 4,000 miles on a mobile truck through ten cities with a QR code attached to it for people to enter for a chance to win a trip to Rhode Island. The other stuffie will live at the Big E’s Rhode Island building. —J.C.

 

~ T ~

The Capital Grille

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Many people might not know the Capital Grille was founded in Providence by Ned Grace, who also owned the Old Grist Mill in Seekonk, Massachusetts, opened Hemenway’s, and created the chain of Bugaboo Creek Steakhouse restaurants, which was later sold to LongHorn Steakhouse. Union Station was the Capital Grille’s first home in 1990, but that building is now on its way to becoming the city’s first food hall, Track 15. The current location is on Memorial Boulevard by the Providence River, and the restaurant still serves dry-aged steaks, fresh seafood and notable wines with impeccable service. 

Little-known Fact: When Grace sold the Capital Grille, there were six locations with four on the way. Now there are more than seventy locations across the United States. 10 Memorial Blvd., Ste. 101, Providence, 521-5600, thecapitalgrille.com —J.C.

Twin Oaks

Everyone has celebrated someone’s birthday at Twin Oaks. The great thing about it is nothing ever changes, from the wood-paneled walls and paper placements bearing the Twin Oaks emblem to the signed memorabilia from celebrity visitors and women with big hair. The legendary Italian food includes chicken Parm, baked stuffed shrimp and prime rib. The celebrity photographs on the wall display NSYNC’s  Joey Fatone, Matt Dillon and Paula Abdul signing their adoration: “Out of this world baked stuffed shrimp!” reads Abdul’s scrawl. Cartoons illustrating Rhode Island-isms include giving directions to places using long-lost landmarks and a road destroyed by potholes with the quote, “The real reason Rhode Islanders won’t travel more than five miles to a restaurant.” When so much changes in this world, it’s nice to know that Twin Oaks stays the same for its loyal family of fans.

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Little-known Fact: In case you didn’t notice, two random trees grow from a circle of mulch in the middle of the asphalt parking lot: twin oaks. 100 Sabra St., Cranston, 781-9693, twinoaksrest.com —J.C.

 

~ U ~

Urban Greens

Bundle Fresh Carrots Isolated

Getty Images

Getty Images

 

More than twenty years in the making, Urban Greens food co-op opened in 2019. It all started with twenty-two Rhode Islanders, who launched a “buying club” to gain access to healthy foods at near-wholesale prices. The group was officially incorporated as Urban Greens in 2007, and eventually went on to open Providence’s first food co-op, Urban Greens Co-op Market, in 2019. You don’t need to be a member to shop there, but if you do join, perks include ownership over your food source and the ability to vote on major initiatives. Urban Greens helps keep food dollars in the community and supports local farmers and food producers. 93 Cranston St., Providence, 267-8432, urbangreens.com —J.C.

 

~ V ~

Vegan/ Vegetarian

Local eateries with veg options to sink your teeth into.

Garden Grille Cafe
Rhode Island was ahead of its time with the plant-based craze. The state’s first vegetarian cafe, Garden Grille offers creative vegetable dishes with plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Dishes like the Reggie’s Raw Heaven salad and the roasted butternut squash quesadilla have satisfied loyal customers since 1996. 727 East Ave., Pawtucket, 726-2826, gardengrilleri.com

Plant City
Four vegan restaurants and a food market under one roof cover every non-plant-based craving with its veggie equivalent. Go for Mexican at Besina, pizza at Double Zero, order sandwiches, bowls and salads at Make Out or settle in for a housemade veggie burger at New Burger. You won’t miss the meat after experiencing these feasts. 334 South Water St., Providence, 429-2029, plantcitypvd.com

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Plant City in Providence. Photography by Angel Tucker

Not Just Snacks
An authentic Indian spot serving vegetarian dishes, loads of vegan substitutes and plenty for meat-eaters. The veggie samosas and curries are favorites. 833 Hope St., Providence, 831-1150, notjustsnacks.com

Crazy Burger
Not just for beef-lovers! Crazy Burger’s menu includes creative vegetarian and vegan burgers. Try the Poco Loco Vegan Burger with roasted tempeh, peppers, onions and black beans. It also has a full juice bar with smoothies and fresh squeezed fruit juices. An added perk? It’s BYOB. 144 Boon St., Narragansett, 783-1810, crazyburger.com —J.C. 

 

~ W ~

Wright’s Dairy Farm and Bakery 

We made so many visits up to this North Smithfield attraction when my kiddo was younger. I mean, what child doesn’t want to gaze at baby cows, see the big gals line up for milking at 3 p.m. sharp, and get up close to the black-and-white beauties with the promise of a homemade cookie and coffee milk afterward? Everything in the store is made fresh daily using milk and cream from the on-site cows. Tip: Try the New England crumb muffin, studded throughout with buttery cinnamon streusel, and thank me later. 

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Photography by Angel Tucker

Little-known Fact: Each Holstein can produce nine gallons of milk a day. 200 Woonsocket Hill Rd., North Smithfield, 767-3014, wrightsdairyfarm.com —D.L. 

Wright’s Farm Restaurant

If you’re visiting Wright’s Farm Restaurant, save space in your stomach. It’s an all-you-can-eat feast where dining parties share family-style platters of salad, rolls, chicken, pasta and french fries. The chicken dinner tradition began with Gene Wright, who supplied chickens to local restaurants and later hosted dinners out of a garage on his farm. In 1954, he opened a real restaurant, and the Galleshaw family continued the tradition from the day they bought the property in 1972. The menu hasn’t changed in more than seventy years. At $17.95 per adult and $9.60 for children ages ten and younger, this everlasting meal can’t be beat. More chicken? I’m not chicken. Bring it on. 84 Inman Rd., Harrisville, 769-2856, wrightsfarm.com —J.C.

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Courtesy of Wright’s Farm Restaurant.

 

~ X ~ 

Xtra Donuts at PVDonuts

PVDonuts is Rhode Island’s first specialty doughnut shop. It’s known for its over-the-top confections that pile on seasonal toppings to fit a certain theme like cup of dirt doughnuts, a brioche pastry filled with chocolate mousse filling and topped with chocolate glaze, Oreo crumbs and a gummy worm for Earth Day or the Friendsgiving doughnut topped with Burgundian fried chicken, stuffing and mashed potatoes on a bed of cranberry sauce. Dunkaroos is, and always will be, a nostalgic favorite, too (Thursdays only). 

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Photograph courtesy of PVDonuts

Little-known Fact: Owners Lori and Paul Kettelle first tested out their doughnuts on members of their CrossFit gym. 58 Wickenden St., Providence, pvdonuts.com —J.C.

 

~ Y ~ 

Yacht Club Soda

Yacht Club Bottling Works started out in 1915 with a British man named Harry Sharp who sold soda out of his barn using a formula from England. The factory was built in 1923 in North Providence around a well located below the building that produces natural artesian water. Now owned by the Sgambato family, it continues to be the ultimate mom-and-pop operation. Not only can you drink the sodas straight from the bottle, but you can also mix them into cocktails. Try this recipe created by Nicks on Broadway. 2239 Mineral Spring Ave., North Providence, 231-9290, yachtclubbottlingworks.com —J.C.

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Photograph courtesy of Yacht Club Soda

FLAVOR: Strawberry
COCKTAIL NAME: Strawberry Fields Margarita
RECIPE: Mix 2 ounces Lunazul Reposado tequila with .5 ounce lime juice and add ingredients to a wine glass. Pour in soda and stir. Garnish with salt and fresh basil. 

 

~ Z ~ 

Zeppole

Each year, March 19 marks St. Joseph’s Day. Between Feb. 1 and Easter, dozens of Rhode Island bakeries turn out the seasonal St. Joseph’s Day treat, zeppole. Some make a point of only doing it once per year. Other bakeries offer it during a short window of time, and some decide to sell it year-round. LaSalle Bakery turns out thousands of zeppole in a small time period. “People ask for them all year long,” owner Michael Manni says. “But we feel that we keep the product special by having it stay seasonal.” Sometimes we want what we can’t have. For a full list of bakeries, go to rimonthly.com/where-to-get-zeppole-in-rhode-island —J.C. 

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Photograph by Jamie Coelho