First Person: Learning to Eat Like a True Rhode Islander (For Science!)

A Maryland transplant taste tests some of Rhode Island's wackiest and beloved menu items.
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Photo by Molly E. Harris

Since moving to Rhode Island, I’ve had to come to terms with the fact that the average diet of the smallest state’s residents includes strictly stuffies, pizza strips, and NY System hot wieners, washed down with a glass of coffee milk and a paper cup of Del’s Lemonade. In fact, the biggest shock after relocating was the size of the grocery stores, considering they only consist of a seafood counter and a floor-to-ceiling shelf of Autocrat syrup. To really embrace the Rhode Islander spirit, I decided to eat like a Rhode Islander for a day, and document the highs, lows, and unexpected surprises along the way. From breakfast to late-night bites, I set out to experience the flavors that make this state unique—whether that meant embracing the classics or questioning the hype. Here’s how my day of eating like a true Rhode Islander went.

9:07 a.m: Breakfast

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Photo by Molly E. Harris

Typical Ocean State locals start their day off with a crisp glass of coffee milk, which is a coffee flavored syrup mixed into a glass of cold milk (a grown up chocolate milk). As someone who doesn’t care for coffee to begin with, I was skeptical, but the flavor grew on me, proving to have more sweet notes than bitter, coffee notes. I used Autocrat syrup, which, from what I have heard, is the best one. I paired my glass of coffee milk with a stack of fresh Johnnycakes, which are believed to have been first made in Rhode Island. This is the second-cousin-twice-removed to the modern pancake, trading that recognizable fluffy texture for a dense cornmeal flatbread griddled on a cast-iron skillet. Safe to say these were not my favorite, and I will be happy to return to my favorite pancake recipe tomorrow. If you’re curious enough to try Johnnycakes, here is the recipe I used.

12:32 p.m: Lunch

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Photo by Molly E. Harris

I hope you didn’t find me too critical over breakfast, because here’s where I get to the true disappointment: bakery pizza strips. This Rhode Island staple is a square of thick, bread-like slices topped with a tangy tomato sauce and traditionally served cold, making them a popular grab-and-go snack from local bakeries. To start, the absence of cheese reminded me of a dish my vegan mother might order from a restaurant with limited options—definitely a major compromise. Despite my initial revulsion, I went in for a bite. Now, this was a tolerable snack; tasty, even. It is not pizza, and I will not stand for anyone calling it that. I finished a few slices and cleaned my palate with a Del’s sparkling lemonade. I’ve had the real deal on Scarborough Beach, and this sparkling drink version lived up to the expectations. You’d do well to pick one up- they’re refreshing with a strong citrus aftertaste.

7:18 p.m: Dinner

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Photo by Molly E. Harris

I was most excited for dinner- finally some seafood! Looking forward to the Ocean State’s arguably most famous dish: stuffies. Stuffies are baked stuffed quahogs filled with a savory mixture of chopped clams, breadcrumbs, herbs, and spices. I tried Iggy’s Doughboys & Chowder House’s version, and it was everything a great stuffie should be—hearty, well-seasoned, and bursting with fresh seafood flavor, all packed into a perfectly baked shell.

While not strictly Rhode Island fare, you should consider ordering the calamari and the clam cakes, both very popular and delicious dishes here. For dessert, of course, I had to order Iggy’s namesake, a doughboy. This was the ultimate treat—golden brown, pillowy soft, and perfectly fried pizza-like dough, with a generous dusting of sugar that makes each bite irresistibly sweet and satisfying.

11:56 P.M: Midnight snack

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Photo by Molly E. Harris

Shockingly, later that night, I still had some room, so I decided to close out my day with a hot dog from Olneyville NY System. Their classic dog features a grilled wiener served in a steamed bun, topped with seasoned meat sauce, mustard, onions, and celery salt. I have to say, the meat sauce surprised me. The concept is not much different from a chili dog, the sauce is more like a thick Italian sauce with extra ground beef rather than a spicy, cumin-laden chili. Controversially, while many Rhode Islanders would defend NY System with their lives, I don’t think this is a dish I would crave or choose again, but I didn’t hate it.

Thanks for eating with me!