5 Itineraries for a Fun Fall Escape
From New York to North Carolina to Puerto Rico.
Index
Ithaca, New York | Niagara Falls, Canada | New Hampshire Wine Trail | San Juan, Puerto Rico | Wilmington, North Carolina
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For the Sun-Seeking Food Lover: San Juan, Puerto Rico
By Jamie Coelho
Barrachina is located in the heart of Old San Juan. Photo by Jamie Coelho
In recent years, I’ve developed travel PTSD. From canceled flights and lost luggage, to delays and a carry-on switcheroo, it seemed like every time I ventured near an airport I confronted chaos. But not this time. We booked nonstop, round-trip flights from Rhode Island T.F. Green International Airport to San Juan, Puerto Rico, departing at 6 a.m. and landing by 9:48 a.m. with the whole day to enjoy.
The Caribe Hilton boasts a beautiful private beach and pool, and is home of the pina colada. Photo via IStock/Getty Images. Plus/ Alpamayo Photo
I traveled swiftly and snafu-free with my husband and two children, ages eight and eleven. We were excited to explore this new-to-us destination together. Piling in a taxi straight from the airport to Caribe Hilton (caribehilton.com), we reached the expansive resort in a fifteen-minute flash. Once we checked into our room, we absorbed the Caribbean blue ocean from the balcony, overlooking the resort’s private beach and pool, palm trees and a historic fort off in the distance. We quickly unpacked and changed into swimsuits and headed outside to take a dip.
Exploring Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a must. Photo by Jamie Coelho
I ordered my first pina colada of the day at the swim-up bar. The pina colada was reportedly invented at this very hotel in the ’50s by bartender Ramón “Monchito” Marrero, who created it as a family-friendly nonalcoholic drink. That’s right, it was originally intended without spirits. Later on, rum and ice were added to the frothy, blended drink we know and love today. While our first moments involved relaxing by the pool and beach, we spent several days exploring Old San Juan and its famous Castillo San Felipe del Morro — one of two major forts on the island — and the Parque de las Palomas and El Yunque rainforest.
Better known as El Morro, San Juan’s sprawling stone fortress boasts nearly 500 years of military history, first to protect Spain and later the United States. It was an important port for countries wanting to do business in the New World and was used to protect the United States in two world wars. The remarkable views stretch out to the city and across the ocean, with plenty of fearless iguanas in between. A ten-minute walk away is the Parque de las Palomas (Pigeon Park) and it’s not for the faint of heart. You can buy $2 bags of birdseed to feed the pigeons in the designated, controlled space, which deters the birds from outdoor patios at restaurants and other areas. Stop by the park — wash your hands — and then go have lunch at the Puerto Rican restaurant Barrachina, the second supposed (and controversial) creator of the pina colada (it turns out that Marrero worked at both places).
Many organized tours are available to visit El Yunque rainforest. Photo by Jamie Coelho
Another day brought us to El Yunque National Forest (fs.usda.gov/elyunque). We booked with Louie’s VIP Tours and they picked us up at our hotel for a full day of adventure, including a visit to a tower where we could scope out the entire rainforest and Saint Thomas in the distance. During a one-mile hike, we spotted stick bugs, snails, tropical flowers and birds, and heard the call of the coqui frogs in the trees. We also drove to a swimming hole where we plunged into the refreshing Rio de la Mina. We finished the day at a food stand serving traditional Puerto Rican empanadas, pulled pork and tropical fruit smoothies. It was a great way to cap off our trip, seeing the natural sights in Puerto Rico with a knowledgeable local tour guide who taught us about rainforest species and history along the way.
Where to Eat
The best Puerto Rican restaurants in San Juan.
Néctar del Caribe
This incredible buffet of endless breakfast selections is the way to start each day, right inside Caribe Hilton. Whether you choose tastes from the offered specialties — many with Puerto Rican influences — or settle on a made-to-order omelet or waffle, you can stack your plate with pastries with tropical fruit fillings, plantains, regional favorites like ropa vieja with peppers and onions, scrambled eggs, French toast, pancakes and more. Sip Caribbean cocktails with brunch or choose from a selection of tropical juices — mango and papaya — or bottomless coffee. caribehilton.com/restaurant/nectar-del-caribe
Empanadillas from Santaella made by chef Jose Santaella. Photo by Jamie Coelho
Santaella
When it comes to dining out, I stay away from tourist traps by getting off the beaten path. Sometimes it’s the places without the waterfront views serving the most authentic, inspiring meals. The best meal we had in San Juan was at Santaella, from chef Jose Santaella. To start, my kids gobbled up all the empanadillas of the day, so much so we had to put in a second order. I feasted on the ahi tuna skewers and we sampled the cheesy ham croquetas. The showstopper was the crisp whole red snapper served with cilantro mojo and fried green plantains called tostones. josesantaella.com
Barrachina
This restaurant is close to both forts, El Morro and La Fortaleza. Located in the heart of Old San Juan, Barrachina opens into a verdant green courtyard with a fountain. Be sure to order the pina colada here, so you can make your own judgement based on who does it better. For food, start with a sampler of Puerto Rican delights from pastelitos and corn fritters to croquettes. Next up, sauteed coconut shrimp served with rice and plantains paired perfectly with my cocktail. barrachina.com
Vianda
Vianda presents a purely upscale Puerto Rican dining experience. Husband-and-wife duo Amelia Dill and Francis Guzmán gained culinary clout together at Blue Hill restaurant in New York City, followed by Guzman’s stint at two-Michelin starred The Modern. Following their move to Puerto Rico in 2017, their farm-to-table menu highlights plates like mussels tostadas escabeche on housemade sourdough, tuna crudo with pineapple aguachile and jalapeno and a fabulous beet salad with citrus carrots, pistachios and horseradish yogurt. It’s no wonder chef Guzmán earned semifinalist recognition by the James Beard Foundation for Best Chef: South in 2022 and 2023 and in the Outstanding Chef category for 2024. viandapr.com
Casita Miramar
Criollo food — the blending of European and Latin Indigenous cuisine, often with African influences — is the specialty at this chic and family-friendly restaurant that opened in the former Hotel Toro in Miramar. Each room is transformed into a different rustic dining area with its own vibe. The family-owned restaurant sources ingredients from the owners’ own farm in Manati. I tried the croquetas de bacalao (codfish fritters) with mayoketchup (a combination of mayo and ketchup) and the traditional pastelon with beef picadillo and sweet plantains, drizzled in a cheesy fondue sauce. It was almost like a Puerto Rican lasagna. casita-miramar.com
Nuts & Bolts
Travel Time: A three-hour-and-forty-five-minute flight from Rhode Island T.F. Green International Airport to San Juan.
Getting There: Direct flights on JetBlue.
Bucket List for Next Time: Book a ferry ride from Ceiba to Vieques, a Caribbean island off Puerto Rico’s eastern coast. Known for its bioluminescent bay and wild horses, it’s a sight to see.
Worth a Detour: Explore the Cordillera Keys Nature Reserve on Icacos Island (Cayo Icacos). Snorkeling tours take guests by boat to see tropical fish, with all equipment provided.
