I Heart Wagyu

Our food writer discovers why designer beef is worth the sticker shock.
Wagyu Kobe-Style Beef

Though Kobe-style beef appears on several local menus, the opportunity to eat deep is a rarity. Unable to resist, I stopped by Ten Prime Steak & Sushi for a late-night sampling of their Wagyu menu. Ten sources its Wagyu from select farms in Texas, Idaho and the illustrious Kobe, Japan, showing off its highly coveted, high-fat beef with culinary pride. What do they offer? A flat-iron cut that gives blade steak—a.k.a. chuck—reason to show its face in public again, a portion cut close to the rib, and a grade eleven (the highest available in the U.S.) sirloin that costs $25 an ounce. (Uh huh: an ounce.) Foie gras aficionados will love the sirloin, which has the texture of a stick of butter but tastes like beef heaven. Traditionalists should opt for the eye of rib (you read it right), marbled so perfectly that each bite tastes as if it’s marinating in its own juices. I’ve not done right by my body but—oh! What a way to go.