Karen Deutsch

Where’s the Beef?

Location tells you a lot about taste and texture. The rules are pretty simple: The more a muscle is worked, the tougher it gets. And the more fat in the meat, the better it tastes.

Chuck: The upper section is tough, as the shoulders and breast get daily movement. Good news: The area has a lot of connective tissue that melts during cooking, adding flavor. Pot roast, short ribs and stew meat come from here and love a long braise, which softens the meat. Ground meat often comes from this section. Rib: Yields ribeye steaks…

High Steaks

Red Meat is in. Here's everything you need to know to indulge your inner carnivore.

Rhode Island may fall dead last in beef production ($1 million in income compared to Texas’s meaty $7 billion), but people in the Northeast eat more steak per person than any other region. (Poor Californians with their itty-bitty bellies.) We want our red meat, and we want it on every high-rent corner in the city. Does this come as a…

The Short List

Where to buy those truly hard-to-find ingredients.

Wagyu Sirloin Kobe is the region and Wagyu is the cattle. Marked by heavy marbling for both texture and taste, Wagyu is commonly referred to as the foie gras of steak.  A.J. Martin, once strictly wholesale, is now willing to sell its Wagyu to you, too. (You can throw some Hereford ground beef in while you’re placing the order.)  Call…

The Shopping List

To maximize your time in the kitchen, we’ve streamlined your prep list. Here’s a cheat sheet of top-notch gourmet stores that carry all the specialty ingredients Casey Riley’s recipes call for—and more.

» Caviar Though Riley calls for American Sturgeon, you can substitute the more readily available American Spoonbill (a.k.a. paddlefish) roe, which has claimed a formidable spot in the domestic market. Spoonbill (a cousin to sturgeon) is similar in appearance but slightly milder in taste with a clean finish. Prices run about $30/ounce. Farmstead, 186 Wayland Avenue, Providence, 274-7177, farmsteadinc.com.  »…

Ethnic Eats

Not up for Italian? The Hill is becoming a hot spot for its non-pasta options. Grab a table here for delicious and authentic international cuisine.

INDIA Bombay Club145 Dean Street, 401-273-6363, bombayclubri.comAn Indian restaurant may seem out of place in Providence’s Little Italy, but what is Italian food if not pasta and gravy? And what is Indian food if not basmati rice or doughy naan soaked in gravy? Bombay Club has some of the city’s best Delhi-inspired fare, including a tangy chicken-laden version of papri…

Rest Stop

Kafe Lila

Pawtucket needs the backing of some creative minds to reach its full economic potential, and applicants can now turn to the Grant Building for a blueprint. A turn-of-the-century structure with sleek hardwoods and cast-iron railings, the Grant is home to a variety of small creative upstarts as well as its cornerstone coffee shop, kafe’ lila (pronounced lay-la). This matte-yellow enclave…

Lobster 101

It’s hard to believe that lobster was once so abundant on the shores of Rhode Island that beachcombers could scoop them up in their bare hands whenever they desired. The crustaceans were so common that they were deemed “a poor man’s food” completely devoid of cachet. In fact, in 1622 Governor William Bradford of the Plimoth Plantation expressed regret that,…

How to Boil Water

Food, glorious food! With a world-class culinary university and a myriad of renowned restaurants, it’s no surprise that Rhode Island offers plenty of opportunities for those who want to sharpen their kitchen skills. Whether you’re just learning how to hold a chef’s knife or ready to master rolling sushi, there’s a class to teach you how. Schools, restaurants and private…

Capital Dining

Restaurants are rated using a 4-star scale: Fair Good Very Good Excellent Al Forno Cafe Nuovo Capriccio L’Epicureo Mediterraneo Mills Tavern Neath’s New Rivers Pot au Feu Ten Prime Steak and Sushi