Karen Deutsch

Reviews: The Slow Rhode and Vinya

Their plates may be small, but they're filled with flavor.

The Slow Rhode 425 West Fountain St., Providence. Open nightly for dinner. No reservations. Wheelchair accessibility is negotiable with small effort; it is a bar. Lot parking. Capacity Thirty. Vibe Concrete meets modern art over a plate of gravy fries. Prices $4–$14. The Slow Rhode’s Duck drumettes with white barbecue. Fried oysters over black-eyed pea stew with bacon and remoulade….

Edgy Midwestern Appeal at Milk Money

Worldly cuisine served up in speakeasy surroundings.

Milk Money 566 South Water St., Providence, 649-4667, milkmoneyri.com. Open Mon.–Fri. for lunch, Mon.–Sat. for dinner, weekends for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is doubtful as there are steps down. Some lot and street parking. Cuisine An American sampler plate with Japanese flourishes. Capacity Ninety-four including the bar. Vibe A speakeasy in Iowa. Without the poetry. Prices Small plates $6–$13;…

Experience Southern Italy at Enoteca Umberto

This tiny spot on Federal Hill is like "a seat in mamma's kitchen."

Enoteca Umberto, 256 Atwells Ave., Providence, 272-8466, facebook.com/enotecaumberto. Open Tues.–Sat. for dinner (summer hours vary). Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is optimistic; the seats are two-foot stools. Lot parking in back. Cuisine Southern Italian. Capacity Eighteen with your elbows in tight. Vibe A seat in mamma’s kitchen. Prices Appetizers $8–$12; entrees $13–$18; dessert $7–$9. Karen’s picks Everything on the menu and…

Capital Grille is a Carnivore’s Dream

The Providence institution is serving up red-blooded meals in a new location.

The Capital Grille, 10 Memorial Blvd., Providence, 521-5600, thecapitalgrille.com. Open Mon.–Fri. for lunch, daily for dinner. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking. Cuisine Meat, potatoes and red wine. Capacity The whole state of Rhode Island. Vibe Capitalism and caveman meet. Prices Appetizers $8–$18; entrees $29–$52; dessert $9–$11. $18 prix-fixe menu available at lunch. Karen’s picks Obviously: shellfish, steak, an inky…

Dining Review: A Trio of Rhode Island Oyster Bars

Head to these spots for buck-a-shuck and slurp away.

Photography by Angel Tucker Bristol Oyster Bar 448 Hope St., Bristol, 396-5820, bristoloysterbar.com Scene: Gallery opening in which you get to sit down (if you can find a seat). Buck-a-Shuck Hours: Monday thru Saturday from 4-6 p.m. and all day Sundays Signature Drink: Cucumber Lemon Drop. Critics be damned. Unexpected but Obligatory: Cornmeal fried oysters with honey Buffalo sauce and…


Everything about this new Warren eatery is welcoming.

54 State St., Warren, 694-0727, bywaterrestaurant.com. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday, late night Friday-Saturday. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is a challenge in the seashell parking lot. Cuisine Contemporary American with a dash of Southern charm. Capacity Thirty-two. vibe Nautical minimalism. Prices Appetizers: $3-$15; entrees: $18–$28; dessert: $3-$7. Karen’s picks Pickled shrimp, beef tartare, seasonal salads, ricotta gnocchi, ice cream and cookies….

Ogie's Trailer Park

Cool cocktails and decadent comfort food at this Providence hotspot.

Clockwise from left: Southern Rhody fried chicken sandwich with Dorito-fried chicken breast, slab bacon, house mayonnaise, cheese, marinated tomato and sweet red onion gastrique. Mac and cheese croquettes with onion cream dip. The grilled PB and J.   1155 Westminster St., Providence, 383-8200, facebook.com/ogiestrailerpark. Open daily for dinner, weekends for lunch (seasonal). Late night every night. Wheelchair accessible, but not…

The Shanty

The Warwick eatery has a friendly, retro vibe.

3854 Post Rd., Warwick, 884-7008, theshantyri.com. Open daily for dinner, Sat.–Sun. for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is challenging. Lot parking. Cuisine America: A retrospective from the last fifty years. Capacity Seventy-two, with bar seating. Vibe A hearthside drinking game. Prices Appetizers $1–$12; entrees $12–$25; dessert: $7–$8. Karen’s picks Brats, fish and chips, TV dinner, burgers, bread pudding. Key Key  Fair  Good  Very…

Red Fin Crudo and Kitchen

Local ingredients plus friendly service equal a spicy debut for this Downcity tapas bar.

71 Washington St., Providence, 454-1335, redfincrudo.com. Open Tues.–Sat. for dinner, Thurs.–Sat. for lunch, Sun. for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Street parking. Cuisine A New Englander walking the Camino. Capacity Seventy with additional outdoor seating. Vibe Industrial cottage. Prices Appetizers $9–$32 (for a four-year-old Iberico ham); entrees $9–$26; dessert $7–$10. Karen’s picks Tapas, octopus, roasted carrots, duck confit mofongo, house-made…

Clean Plate

Cheerful, casual and ever so satisfying, the menu at Clean Plate equals indulgent pleasure.

345 South Water St., Providence, 621-8888, cleanplateri.com. Open for lunch Tues.–Fri.; dinner Tues.–Sat.; brunch Sat.–Sun. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is difficult through the front door. Some lot and street parking. Cuisine Breakfast and snack foods on steroids. Capacity Seventy with bar seating. Vibe An indoor picnic with booze. Prices Breakfast $5–$12; appetizers $6–$11; entrees $7.50–$14; dessert $7. Karen’s picks Breakfast…