Karen Deutsch

Low-Country Cooking Bucktown

An unpretentious joint offers Southern comfort food at its messy best.

Bucktown 471 West Fountain St., 343-0441, Providence, bucktownpvd.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sun. for breakfast. Wheelchair accessibility is tough; all counters are stool-high. Street parking. Capacity Twenty-three, plus outdoor seating in warmer weather. Cuisine Low country cooking. Vibe As if a 1970s VW bus in the Deep South opened its awning and started serving sandwiches. Prices Mains $5–$20;…

Massimo Updates Old-School Italian

The new restaurant on Federal Hill serves modern Italian cuisine.

134 Atwells Ave., Providence, 273-0650, massimori.com Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sundays for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking. Cuisine Modern Italian. Capacity 200 Vibe Federal Hill in its forties: mature but still looking for a good time. Prices Appetizers $9–$14; entrees $17–$34; dessert $6–$9. Karen’s picks Fried burrata, beef carpaccio, pasta, Massimo steak. Key  Fair  Good  Very Good  Excellent Half-star   Walking…

Statesman Tavern is Effortlessly Hip

This Bristol newcomer is Sam Malone’s “Cheers” for a slightly more refined crowd.

31 State St., Bristol,  396-5115, statesmantavern.com Open Tues.–Sun. for dinner. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is possible, but challenging. Street parking Cuisine Americana. Capacity Forty, ten of whom are sitting at the bar. Vibe Sam Malone’s “Cheers” for a slightly more refined crowd. Prices Appetizers $4–$14; entrees $15–$32; dessert $5–$9. Karen’s picks Pimento cheese, shrimp and grits, burgers. Key  Fair  Good  Very Good  Excellent Half-star The…

Persimmon Delights in New Location

The Bristol favorite has expanded with its move to Providence.

99 Hope St., Providence, 432-7422, persimmonri.com. Open Tues.–Sun. for dinner. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessible. Street parking. Cuisine New American with a subtle nod to the French. Capacity Eighty. Vibe New England farmhouse meets NYC loft. Prices All dishes are the size of a large appetizer: $9–$26; dessert $4–$9. Karen’s picks Anything. Everything. Key  Fair  Good  Very Good  Excellent Half-star Champe Speidel has moved on. Nearly…

Tiverton’s Red Dory Serves Up Seafood and Tapas

The bayside eatery is preppy without pretense.

1848 Main Rd., Tiverton, 816-5001, reddoryrestaurant.com. Open Wed.–Sun. for dinner, Sundays for lunch / tapas. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessibility is negotiable. Lot parking. Cuisine Waters of New England dominate but there’s a sprinkle of international spice. Capacity Ninety-four, and another two dozen on the deck to boot. Vibe Preppy without the pretense. Prices Appetizers $8–$13; entrees $12–$25; dessert $6–$7. Karen’s…

Review: Hang Ten at Chair Five

The Narragansett eatery is all about the view.

1208 Ocean Rd., Narragansett, 363-9820, dinechair5.com. Open Mon.–Fri. for lunch; dinner nightly. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Valet and parking lot. Cuisine New England seashore meets Asia. Capacity Fifty. Vibe Surf bunnies whose parents are footing the bill. Prices Appetizers $5–$12; entrees $10–$28; dessert $7–$15. Karen’s picks Burgers and fries, dessert and the cocktail of your choosing. Key  Fair  Good  Very Good  Excellent Half-star   Creamy…

Deceptively Simple Cuisine at Oberlin

Where "the waters of Japan meet the fields of Tuscany."

186 Union St., Providence, 588-8755, oberlinrestaurant.com. Open Thurs.–Mon. for dinner and late night. No reservations. Wheelchair accessibility is negotiable but possible. Street parking. Cuisine The waters of Japan meet the fields of Tuscany. Capacity Fifty-five to sixty-five. Vibe A little bit of Beyonce: effortlessly cool on the surface but obsessively managed at the core. Prices Smaller plates $4–$14; really large…

Reviews: The Slow Rhode and Vinya

Their plates may be small, but they're filled with flavor.

The Slow Rhode 425 West Fountain St., Providence. Open nightly for dinner. No reservations. Wheelchair accessibility is negotiable with small effort; it is a bar. Lot parking. Capacity Thirty. Vibe Concrete meets modern art over a plate of gravy fries. Prices $4–$14. The Slow Rhode’s Duck drumettes with white barbecue. Fried oysters over black-eyed pea stew with bacon and remoulade….

Edgy Midwestern Appeal at Milk Money

Worldly cuisine served up in speakeasy surroundings.

Milk Money 566 South Water St., Providence, 649-4667, milkmoneyri.com. Open Mon.–Fri. for lunch, Mon.–Sat. for dinner, weekends for brunch. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is doubtful as there are steps down. Some lot and street parking. Cuisine An American sampler plate with Japanese flourishes. Capacity Ninety-four including the bar. Vibe A speakeasy in Iowa. Without the poetry. Prices Small plates $6–$13;…

Experience Southern Italy at Enoteca Umberto

This tiny spot on Federal Hill is like "a seat in mamma's kitchen."

Enoteca Umberto, 256 Atwells Ave., Providence, 272-8466, facebook.com/enotecaumberto. Open Tues.–Sat. for dinner (summer hours vary). Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessibility is optimistic; the seats are two-foot stools. Lot parking in back. Cuisine Southern Italian. Capacity Eighteen with your elbows in tight. Vibe A seat in mamma’s kitchen. Prices Appetizers $8–$12; entrees $13–$18; dessert $7–$9. Karen’s picks Everything on the menu and…