Karen Deutsch

Comfort Food at Cook and Dagger

You'll forget all about its unpolished decor after a single, satisfying bite.

Chef Chris Kattawar transfigures familiar plates — Bolognese with fist-sized ricotta gnocchi; fried chicken with Texas toast — with ease.

Indian Cuisine Shines at Dabbawala Lunchbox

This small Indian restaurant looks unassuming on the outside, but its dishes are anything but ho-hum.

Every dish at Dabbawala Lunchbox is surprising: unexpected texture, nuanced spice, an adherence to culture that tastes less like tradition and more like artwork.

Swiss-inspired Cuisine Shines at Rosmarin

A juxtaposition of earthiness and intricacy drives this Downcity kitchen.

311 Westminster St., Providence, 521-3333, rosmarin-ri.com Open for dinner Wed.–Mon. Reservations recommended. Wheelchair accessible. Valet parking. Cuisine Swiss. Capacity Twenty-six in the dining room. Vibe The decor is still in flux but the food — part Ursula Andress, part Daniel Humm — is worth the visit. Prices Savory dishes: $9–$26; dessert: $10; six-course tasting menu: $69 Karen’s picks Tasting menus…

Low-Country Cooking Bucktown

An unpretentious joint offers Southern comfort food at its messy best.

Bucktown 471 West Fountain St., 343-0441, Providence, bucktownpvd.com. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sun. for breakfast. Wheelchair accessibility is tough; all counters are stool-high. Street parking. Capacity Twenty-three, plus outdoor seating in warmer weather. Cuisine Low country cooking. Vibe As if a 1970s VW bus in the Deep South opened its awning and started serving sandwiches. Prices Mains $5–$20;…