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Ethnic Eats

Venture around the world at the state’s best ethnic restaurants without dropping more than a Hamilton.

Ethnic EatsApsara l Regulars are quick to proclaim that this is the original and best Apsara in town. A convergence of Asian cuisines, it’s long been a favorite for everything from pad Thai to spicy Singapore noodles to nime chow. The atmosphere’s not fancy and the servers not overly attentive, but you can feast for about $10 and still have some leftovers for breakfast. 716 Public St., Providence, 785-1490.

Bombay Club l The temptation lies in Bombay’s assortment of Indian appetizers. You can make your own dinner out of the large portions and low prices (some under $3) and, though they offer pre-made medleys of pakoras and samosas, we can never turn down the chicken tikka and cucumbers tossed with a deliciously sweet tamarind sauce. 145 Dean St., Providence, 273-6363, bombayclubri.com.

Chilango’s l You don’t get more authentic or homespun than Chilango’s, which eschews Tex-Mex for more indigenous dishes. A variety of stuffed tortillas (from thick sopas to the gargantuan huaraches) are made by hand, and filled with every part of an animal (hey, the feet, head and tongue are good, too!). Chips and salsa are gratis, but don’t pass up a side of their finger-licking guacamole. 447 Manton Ave., Providence, 383-4877.

El Chapin l Given the growing number of Guatemalan residents in Rhode Island, it’s a wonder there aren’t more places like El Chapin. Maybe no one can do better than the fried tacos, open-faced enchiladas and stewed meats that have won the loyalty of Cesar Morales’ customers for more than ten years. For early risers, the eggs and plantains are a requisite. Cash only. 486 Broadway, Providence, 273-2320; 271 Plainfield St., Providence, 464-4400.

El Paisa Restaurante l What’s the fun of exploring a culture if you don’t learn to love something new? Grab your Spanish-speaking friends for a sampling of El Paisa’s Colombian blood sausage, starchy cassava and grilled meats. Let yourself go and try the gluttonous fried bacon before washing it down with sweetened figs. If you’re lucky enough to live nearby, they deliver. 598 Dexter St., Central Falls, 726-8864, elpaisa.com.

Kings Garden l Though Chinese was once guaranteed to be easy on the wallet, prices have gotten steeper and portions more anemic. Dim sum to the rescue. With more than forty dishes under $4, Kings Garden is a buffet in the making. Finish with the sweet red bean bun and skip the $5 you’d usually spend on an ice cream cone. 90 Rolfe Square, Cranston, 467-8916.

La Arepa l Think of it as a tortilla but smaller, sweeter and thicker. La Arepa’s namesake corn cakes are filled with cheese, meat, beans, avocado and then grilled so that the exterior is crispy and the inside oozing out. Pair them with fruity South American sodas and, for $5, it’s almost too much to bear. The shop isn’t large so don’t plan on lingering; get extras to go. Cash only. 574 Smithfield Avenue, Pawtucket, 335-3711.

Not Just Snacks l True to its name, this East Side storefront offers great Indian tidbits as well as myriad meal-worthy savory dishes. Chicken and beef kabobs, bite-sized breads and display cases of sweet ras malai are all small enough to gulp down in a couple of bites but, added together, easily equal a multi-course dinner for under $10. 833 Hope St., Providence, 831-1150.

Pho Paradise l Soup is so underrated, particularly in Asian cuisine where oil content can creep up when you’re least expecting it. Pho is a lighter and sublimely satisfying option on a cool autumn night, and Pho Paradise offers extra-large bowls for under $7. The best part is that this isn’t just noodle soup—there’s plenty of meat (like chicken and pork) to go around if you want it. 337 Broad St., Providence, 369-7990.

Taqueria Pacifica l The best way to appeal to hungry diners? Sneak up on them while they’re partying. Taqueria Pacifico has been a hit ever since they opened in AS220, serving salsa, burritos and tacos between performances, exhibitions and board meetings along Empire. Once just a traveling truck, the taqueria now stands still long enough for you to spend your five bucks. 105 Empire St., Providence, 621-8785.

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- November, 2008

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