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The Crop

Clockwise, from left.

Lobsters
Though most of the country’s lobsters come from cooler Maine waters, Rhode Island does catch a steady stream. These crustaceans will certainly put up more of a fight than smaller shellfish, but the boiled, broiled or baked results are worth the effort. Lobsters are usually caught March through December though they molt (shed their skins) July through October, yielding a softer meat.

Quahogs
Rhode Island’s most famous clam is a hard-shell variety known by myriad names based on weight. Littlenecks are the smallest (and the most tender) quahogs, followed by cherry-stones and chowder clams, which are large and used for — you guessed it — chowder.

Eastern Oysters
Atlantic-borne oysters, also termed American, are abun-dant in Rhode Island waters though a few local farmers are harvesting flat European varieties in smaller numbers. Farmers give their crop personalized names and, while each has its own characteristics, Eastern oysters are generally briny with a more subtle, even sweet, finish.

Blue Mussels
While mussels may have risen to popularity in Europe, they still lag behind oysters and clams in the States. It’s most common to steam mussels because the shells open in the process. However, they can be fried, sauteed or stuffed. Atlantic varieties are more abundant than West Coast varieties since the latter are prone to toxicity in warmer months.

Crabs
Relatively low numbers of rock (a.k.a. Johah) and blue crabs are available in local waters, the latter sold as soft-shells in summer months when they shed their shell. Sweet and subtle in flavor, crabs have a short shelf life. Live crabs should be cooked the day they’re caught or within one day if they’ve al-ready been killed. Because the yield is so low, picked crab meat (usually from blue crabs) comes at a high price.

Steamer Clams
Like oysters and quahogs, steamers go by a lot of names: soft shell clams (a bit of a misnomer given that their shells are only slightly thinner than the quahog) and, more aptly, longnecks. They have a “long neck siphon” that extends out of the shell and is used to filter water. Because steamer shells don’t close completely, they have more debris in them and are more perishable than quahogs.

Bay Scallops
Historically high numbers of bay scallops have been decimated as of late, making these exceedingly sweet and tender scallops a culinary prize. They’re harvested in late fall and winter and, luckily, indigenous to the Northeast. You can occasionally find bay scallops in their shells but, more often than not, they’re already shucked. Don’t confuse bay scallops with the less flavorful and even smaller calico scallops.

Sea Scallops
These larger scallops are more widely available as they grow all along the Eastern shore and are harvested year-round. The flesh is still sweet though tougher than bay scallops. Their broad surface area makes them ideal for sauteing, and the meat seems more tender when it’s given a crusty surface. Like all scallops, they’re almost always sold out of the shell.