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Port Panache

The shops in and around Mystic, Connecticut, stock a salty blend of worthwhile finds just right for summer.

Photography by Nat Rea

Historically, the place , the place is as rich as they come. Postcard-perfect Mystic Seaport includes a recreated nineteenth-century coastal community complete with stalwart old ships and charming houses. In addition to its fascinating heritage, though, there’s also a wealth of shops and galleries. Not surprisingly, nautical offerings — boat prints, maps and models —  prevail. We browsed all day for cheery accoutrements that would channel some of the town’s sunny ambience for us year round.


Places to Shop
1  The Emporium, 15 Water Street, 860-536-3891. Peek in for their festive hanging lanterns (great for a porch or bedroom) in all kinds of colors and shapes. Also noteworthy are their whimsical drawer knobs, the kind that transform ordinary dressers into chic storage.

2  Courtyard Gallery, 12 Water Street, 860-536-5059, courtyardgallerymystic.com. There’s a sister shop on West Main Street, but the character of the Water Street courtyard adds to the European step-into-my-studio appeal. Myriad paintings and sculpture (on this day, fluid bronze dancers by Patrick Purcell) provide rewarding sightseeing should you not be in a buying mood.

3  The Hollow Art & Antique Gallery, 12 Water Street, 860-572-9704. This gallery warrants a look for its eclectic mix — some art, antiques, garden-related items and so on. A jaunty velvet-striped sofa, the shop’s largest offering, would make a prime reading roost.

Left: At Hollow Antiques, green plant stand, $150; needlepoint chair, $85; decoy, $45; framed print, $225; candlestick, $24; salt cast figure, $75.

4  Mystic Arts Center, 9 Water Street, 860-536-7601, mysticarts.org. Dedicated to furthering arts within the community, the center supports several airy galleries brimming with regional art in a variety of mediums and most is for sale. A suggested donation of $3 seems little enough for an eye-pleasing tour.

5  The Linen Press, 49 West Main Street, 860-536-5193. All that the name implies: pretty linens for the home from table to bed and complementary trappings such as fragrant room diffusers. Standing out amid the fanfare are John Robshaw’s to-die-for creations.  

6  The Company of Craftsmen, 43 West Main Street, 860-536-4189, companyofcraftsmen.com. The medley of handcrafted goods includes wooden bowls, glass vases, colorful pottery, carved birds, cutting boards and more.  

7  Trade Winds Gallery, 42 West Main Street, 860-536-0119. Area artists are well represented. But stellar antique maps suggesting the magic of past journeys are the gallery’s forte. The knowledgeable proprietor willingly supplies the history, which ratchets up the mood. We most fancied a six-foot-long map depicting the East Coast from Newport to New York for about $2,500. 

8  Radio Waves, 29 West Main Street, 860-572-4435. There’s a sure slant toward vintage music, but we also spied tide clocks, spy glasses, bookends and a generous dose of Arts and Crafts-style lamps. One of the wooden chess sets could lend utilitarian stature to a nondescript coffee table, too. 

9  Comina, 27 West Main Street, 860-536-7814, comina.com. Comina shops are scattered throughout New England. This one has all the stylish furniture (the leather chairs are total winners) and accessories we’ve come to expect.

Left: At Comina, loveseat by Robin Bruce, $1,495; chainstitched pillow, $55; sea creatures rug, $2,535; copper cauldron table from Turkey, $550; hand-blown martini glasses, $17 each; candle lantern, $64.50.

10  Whyevernot, 17 West Main Street, 860-536-6209. There’s something for everybody at this popular stop: artful pottery, hand-made papers, throws and fat pillows by Utility Canvas perfect for lazy day lounging.    

11  Shells Galore N’More, 12 Cottrell Street, 860-536-8060. Shells denote the season. And when you come upon the chest filled with all different kinds ($1 each), you’ll feel like your boat has come in.

12  Church Street Antiques, Schooner Wharf, 14 Holmes Street, 860-572-0457. This tiny shop is bursting at the seam with collectibles like vintage salt and pepper shakers in dozens of shapes, tea cups and silver spoons. Alas, we didn’t buy — and should have — a dainty bisque lamp (no shade) festooned with flowers for $20. And we’re still pining over the vintage jewelry perfect for refashioning into napkin rings or ornaments (think Tracy Porter).

13  Mystic River Yarns, Schooner Wharf, 14 Holmes Street, 860-536-4305, mysticriveryarns.com. Every imaginable wool you’ll ever want along with related materials like needles, books, patterns and wonderful buttons in an array of sizes and shapes. Best of all, no need to feel intimidated; the friendly and expert staff treat even neophytes as equals.

14  Cutwater Marine Gallery, Schooner Wharf, 14 Holmes Street, 860-572-1576.  A cozy gallery with a sea of water-related books and art, including some wooden whales by noted Vermont sculptor Wick Ahrens.

15  Marine Consignment of Mystic, 15 Holmes Street, 860-245-0588, marineconsignment.com. Way more refined (and far more edited) than its North Kingstown sister, the shop is a trove for nautical enthusiasts. But in addition to the maritime trappings, there are also items suited for home decor — everything from aquatic-blue and green glass floats (use them as objets on a mantle) to lamps, hardware and some good old sea-flavored books to fill that naked shelf.

16  The Museum Store at Mystic Seaport, 47 Greenmanville Avenue, 860-572-5386, mysticseaport.org. The Museum Store has tabletop treats galore — dishware, glassware and mats to name a few — all emblazoned with ships, plus showy ship models and ship model-building kits (from $20 to $300). Best of all is The Art and Custom Frame Gallery’s bounty of art in a range of prices. A signed and numbered limited edition of Russ Kramer’s dramatic painting of the 1895 America’s Cup, The Defender, is yours for as little as $350 or as much as $3,600, depending on size and whether the print is on paper or canvas.

Left: At The Company of Craftsmen, decoy by Janie Hand, $275; ceramics by Rhode Island artist Harry Spring, $28-$68; wood inlay wall art by Hudson River Inlay, $78; Arts and Crafts tile by Motawi, $175-$250.

17  Nest, 16 Stonington Road, 860-536-5400. Nevermind that the shop is removed from the downtown fray. For thirteen years, loyal patrons have found more than enough reason to stop. Pretty candles, unique accessories and glam gifts — many bird or nature-related — jostle for space inside the chartreuse-colored, you-won’t-miss-it building.  

Places to Revive
18  Pizetta, 7 Water Street, 860-536-4443, pizzettamystic.com. How can you not love an eatery that employs a restored fire engine for catering? Still, the hungry crowds pouring in are most concerned with the fare: lots of natural ingredients atop a heavenly crust. Order a “combination pie” and for a small fee ($1.50 per item) add what you like: broccoli, pineapple, more naughty cheese? 

19  Mystic Pizza, 56 West Main Street, 860-536-3700, mysticpizza.com. Fans of the 1988 movie will want to at least poke a head in the door. Still going strong, the eatery packs in crowds not only for their pie ($6.70 for a small plain), but also soups, grinders and salads. 

20  AZU, 32 West Main Street, 860-536-6336, azuct.com. Trendy spot with an opulent menu replete with “small bites” (ceviche shrimp cocktail, calamari and nachos are just the beginning) for sharing. Favorites like hamburgers ($10) and tasty fish and chips ($16) you can gobble up by yourself.

21  S&P Oyster Company, 1 Holmes Street, 860-536-2674, sp-oyster.com. The food is delicious and so are the views from the patio or inside. If you choose the latter, zoom upstairs where it’s more peaceful. The lobster salad over avocado salsa appetizer is dainty but indulgent enough for two. The scrumptious oyster po’ boy will leave larger appetites satisfied. Can’t decide? Go with a steaming cup of classic chowder ($4.50).
Left: S&P Oyster Company

22  Lis Bake Shop, 15 Holmes Street, 860-536-9090. Dip into this sweet niche by the water for a delectable scone ($2.25) and a cappuccino. 

In the Neighborhood
Be sure — especially if kids are in tow — to tour historic Mystic Seaport (75 Greenmanville Avenue, 860-572-5322, mysticseaport.org). The Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration (55 Coogan Boulevard, 860-572-5955, mysticaquarium.org) has all the ocean’s fantastic creatures under one roof. And absolutely don’t miss Holly Hock Farm Antiques (41 Main Street, Old Mystic, 860-536-4700, hollyhockfarmantiques.com). $1,100 seemed a pittance for the twin mahogany beds by American master cabinet maker Nathan Margolis we envisioned stashing in our guest room. Shopahalics can also move on to Olde Mistick Village (Coogan Boulevard, 860-536-4941, oldemistickvillage.com) where there are dozens more haunts to explore (among the best are Garden Specialties for all the name implies and The Gray Goose Cookery for bright table linens, dishware and picnic baskets).