Getaways on a Time

(page 3 of 5)

[Portsmouth, New Hampshire]

The maritime city of Portsmouth, which still has a working port, is navigable in a day or two. It’s got a lot going for it: rich history, arts scene, excellent restaurants, chic shops and coastline (it claims part of New Hampshire’s mere eighteen miles of shore). What it lacks: a plethora of chain restaurants and stores, snobby locals and kitschy souvenir stores. Technically, Portsmouth is a city, but you’d be hard-pressed to find another metro area code with such small-town charisma.

—Jenna Pelletier

FRIDAY
5 p.m  Grand Hotel
If you’re feeling indulgent, the grand Wentworth by the Sea hotel is the place to stay in Portsmouth. The opulent building dates back to 1874, but there’s no forgoing modern luxuries (including a full-service spa) due to an extensive renovation and expansion in 2003. Technically, the hotel’s in New Castle, but the five minutes it takes to drive from the center of town to the hotel are well worth it. Be sure to ask for one of the ocean or harbor view rooms. 588 Wentworth Road, 603-422-7322, wentworth.com, $169-$499/night.

6 p.m.
Catch of the Day
Jumpin’ Jay’s Fish Café is the locals’ dinner spot of choice, thanks to its casually sophisticated vibe and menu of fish fresh off the boat. You can’t go wrong with a half-dozen blue point oysters ($13) or haddock piccata ($20), the house special, made with a light-yet-creamy lemon, caper, white wine and butter sauce. 150 Congress Street, 603-766-3474, jumpinjays.com.

7:30 p.m.
Bar Hop
Take an evening stroll down to one of lively Bow Street’s waterfront bars to grab a local brew — both Smuttynose and Red Hook breweries call Portsmouth home (and offer tours). The Stockpot (53 Bow Street, 603-431-1851) and Poco’s Bow Street Cantina (37 Bow Street, 603-431-5967) decks are good bets; both offer a laidback atmosphere and prime views of the Piscataqua River and its famed tugboats.

Midnight
Late-night Munchies
After a night of drinking, locals with grum-bling stomachs line up at Gilley’s P.M. Lunch (603-431-6343), a moveable 1940s diner car permanently parked at 175 Fleet Street, for burgers and dogs. A kraut dog goes for $1.50, a cheeseburger $2.25, so just a few crumpled leftover bills suffice to satisfy even the biggest beer bellies.

SATURDAY

9 a.m.
Morning Jolt
Despite the Starbucks across Market Square and a bevy of other cafes and cof-fee shops around town, Breaking New Grounds is one of the city’s prime hangouts. People from all walks — college kids, soccer moms, real estate agents — flock here to do business or relax over something sweet. It’s a comfy, inexpensive place to grab a quick breakfast — the light, flaky cinnamon twists are a particularly good complement to their exceptional lattes. 14 Market Square, 603-436-9555.

Noon 
Retail Exercise
Spend a few hours strolling along Portsmouth’s easy-to-navigate downtown streets (Market, Bow and Congress streets), taking time to poke around in some of the eclectic independently owned shops. Gulliver’s Travel (7 Commercial Alley, 603-431-5556) is a world adventurer’s dream. It’s stocked with maps, travel guides and tons of other travel-related accessories. Worldly Goods (37 Congress Street, 603-436-9311, worldlygoodsnh.com) is home to a well-edited collection of vases, pottery and jewelry. Flatbread Pizza Co. (138 Congress Street, 603-436-7888, flatbreadcompany.com) makes for a great lunch stop. The sometimes-long wait time flies by as you watch the cooks in the open kitchen fire up tasty, organic thin-crust pies, topped with locally produced vegetables and meat.

5:30 p.m.
Prodigal Gourmet
Twenty-two-year-old Benjamin Hasty recently took over as the executive chef at the much-hyped Dunaway Restaurant at Strawbery Banke, a great accomplishment in its own right, but even more impressive considering he was picked to fill the clogs of Mary Dumont, one of Food and Wine’s Ten Best New Chefs of 2006. Hasty takes his dedication to local food personally — the restaurant serves pork that comes from his own family’s Maine farm. Try the tagliatelle pasta with black truffles and parmesan canape ($6) or the bacon-wrapped duck breast with lentils and fava beans ($27). 66 Marcy Street, 603-373-6112, dunawayrestaurant.com.

7:30 p.m.
Local Culture
Catch a concert or play at one of the city’s handful of theaters. The Music Hall (28 Chestnut Street, 603-436-2400, themusichall.org), a recently renovated 1878 theatre, is arguably the best venue. The nonprofit center has brought in musicians including Ziggy Marley and Crosby and Nash, and also presents ballet, indie films and book readings by the likes of John Updike. If you’re looking for something edgier, The Players’ Ring (105 Marcy Street, 603-436-8123, playersring.org) stages improv performances and the work of local playwrights.

 

SUNDAY

8:30 a.m.
Down Time
Take advantage of the Wentworth’s spa and start the morning with a massage or seaweed body wrap. Afterward, walk down the hall to Bubbles and Jazz Sunday Brunch. It’s decadent to the nth degree: champagne, live jazz, ice sculptures and every breakfast food you can imagine.   

11:30 a.m.
Sunday Stroll
Take a turn around Prescott Park: the city’s epicenter of outdoor activity. The ten-acre, waterfront spot is ideal for people watching, picknicking or lounging with a book.