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Mill's Tavern

I’ve eaten at Mill’s Tavern many times, in its early heyday and during its somewhat troubled last year. As owner Jaime D’Olivera turned his attentions to the less expensive (and ceaselessly crowded) Red Stripe, the consistency and quality of Mill’s began to slide, and I began to wonder if the success of Mill’s Tavern might fade into oblivion.

The restaurant has gained new life, however, at the hands of its latest chef, Christian Pieper, and a menu that still offers upscale comfort food and some refreshingly innovative fare.

Mill’s provides something that’s rare to find in a relatively new restaurant: maturity. There is no coyness here, no aesthetic or culinary gimmicks, and the majority of the waitstaff are, appealingly, a good decade over twenty-five. They’re also very familiar with the menu and wine list — a nice change from other restaurants where staff seem to flit weekly from one establishment to the next.

The decor feels just as dramatic as it did when the doors opened five years ago: dark Arts and Crafts-style woods, exposed brick and an accent of stone above the open kitchen dominate without being intimidating. Overhead, the massive hurricane-style chandeliers offer just the right amount of subdued lighting for a refined meal. The wine list contains about a hundred varieties, with a particularly strong selection of cabs and zinfandels from California.

Mill’s still serves the raw bar options, grilled steaks and chops, and offerings from the wood-burning oven that established its reputation. Pieper (who may be the youngest employee here) has confidence in his cooking, pushing the envelope just enough to dazzle diners without intimidating them. Traditional Caesar salad ($9) is enhanced with an anchovy beignet, while a dark butternut squash soup is poured around a toasted bread raft supporting a prosciutto-wrapped scallop. Appetizers are tasty, yes, but they also draw attention to the focus on classic French technique. I don’t know how many places still employ someone strictly for garde manger, but I extend my appreciation to the unsung heroes here cutting perfectly uniform and decoratively peeled vegetables.

The menu changes seasonally, although game meats, such as rabbit, are perpetually popular as is steak in a variety of forms. The beef is cut and aged in house, including a ten-ounce filet with better flavor than what’s served at most steakhouses in town. Braised lamb shank is paired with pineapple risotto that offers a touch of sweetness to a rich rosemary-infused jus. A dusting of cornmeal stabilizes tender sole though falls short of producing a fish hearty enough to balance the underlying smoked crab and sweet corn barley. There are several noteworthy side dishes, including lemon-and-parmesan-topped asparagus roasted in the wood-burning ovens that personify the allure and aroma of a campfire.

I give points to the kitchen for audacity in pairing grapefruit gelato with a dense chocolate cake. The combination is far better than I imagined, save for some dueling bitterness at the end of the bite. Their maple creme brulee is exceptional, as is the restaurant’s Portuguese sweetbread pudding with Madeira-laced caramel sauce.

With entree prices reaching well over $30 citywide, it shouldn’t be unusual to enjoy a great meal in a truly impressive setting. These days, Mill’s is consistent in providing both. D’Olivera may continue to grow his empire, but I hope he doesn’t turn his back on Mill’s. It’s too special a place for the grownups in town to lose.

Mill’s Tavern - -1/2
101 North Main Street, 272-3331
Years in Business: 5 
Chef: Christian Pieper
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Dinner for Two: $140
Get: Just about anything.
DON’T GET: Some of the more unusual dessert combinations, which may challenge your tastebuds.