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L'Epicureo

Much has been said about L’Epicureo’s transformation from a traditional Atwells Avenue restaurant to an opulent downtown establishment. True, there are inconsistencies in the style: massive chandeliers paired with dark slate floors reflect both time-honored and contemporary inspiration, while the overbearing faux-Renaissance paintings and pearly pink stained glass flanking the bar are aesthetically misplaced. (I doubt the original Mona Lisa would appreciate her six-foot-tall reproduction.)

Chef Richard Allaire, however, doesn’t suffer from such an identity crisis. Influences from his time at Boston’s Radius and Newport’s Spiced Pear are evident: this is upscale dining in every sense of the word. The wine list is formidable, with more than a hundred varieties ranging from $20 to well over $200, with a surprisingly high number falling under $40. Dishes are complex, even for a veteran diner, and to
Allaire’s credit, he usually maintains control over his vast arsenal of ingredients.

The menu changes seasonally, allowing the kitchen to offer perennial favorites throughout the year with vastly different preparations. In early fall, for example, grilled apricots lend the needed textural and tangy contrast to a beautifully seared foie gras. Toasted brioche and a reduction of Marsala add smokiness to this appetizer worth its hefty price of $17.95. Allaire also transforms a first course of seared scallops from New England staple to international melange. Two nicely crusted scallops are served on a bed of quinoa with cubes of mellow parsnip, herbed oil and a thick sunchoke puree. The dish highlights variations in temperature as well as consistency, contrasting the warm scallops with the cool root vegetable sauce.

There is more traditional Italian fare in the entree selection, including veal Bolognese, risotto and a massive osso bucco. The enormous price — $36.95 — suggests something grand, and the serving is indeed two full veal shanks. (When will restaurateurs realize that most diners would rather pay less for a manageable portion?) The kitchen does a formidable job of cooking the meat until delicately tender without having a single forkful fall from the bone before presentation. Served on a surprisingly hot layer of al dente risotto Milanese, the dish only lacks a gremolata sophisticated enough to be called L’Epicurean. The large mince of parsley and garlic does little to enhance it.

Though the waitstaff describes the fettuccini carbonara as “very creamy,” the dish is surprisingly light. The problem is that it’s also painfully salty, and a good dose of cream or egg yolk would have balanced the sauce. Not an easily forgiven mistake for a trained kitchen and a waste given that the housemade pasta would be nearly perfect without such an undesirable sauce and an overabundance of parsley.

Allaire partners well with pastry chef Josh Gomes. A light and delicately flavored frozen pomegranate souffle is presented under a dome and served with a fresh peach consomme. Sprinkled with a brunoise of peach and sliced grapes, it is a fruit aficio-nado’s dream. Chocolate lovers may take the top seed, though, with an outstanding chocolate custard caramel. It’s an innovative and a heartier version of the conventional creme caramel: a chocolate amoretti custard topped with a thick chocolate layer where caramel would normally run. The underlying chocolate biscuit is difficult to break apart with a fork, but the diminutive chocolate-dipped Rice Krispie treat, spoonful of tapioca and splash of orange “paint” are just enough to make the dessert whimsical without sacrificing sophistication.

Some may feel that the restaurant has relinquished its Italian roots by relocating to the Hotel Providence, and they may be right. There are benefits however to the move, and hospitality is one of them. Guests are pampered with food, service and presentation (noted decor aside). L’Epicureo may not be wholly indicative of traditional Rhode Island or even Italian cuisine, but it has a personality all its own.

L’Epicureo -
311 Westminster Street, 521-3333, http:/hotelprovidence.com/dining/
lepicureo.html
Years in Business: 13
Chef: Richard Allaire
Cuisine: Formal Italian, with a nod to the French
Dinner for Two: $160
Get: Warm appetizers, osso bucco, dessert.
Don’t get: Pasta sauces. Surprisingly, these are not their strong suit though the pasta itself is excellent.