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Capriccio

Capriccio, which celebrated its thirtieth anniversary last year, remains just as it was when its doors opened in 1976: Nino D’Urso still mans the kitchen, the servers (mostly men) are outfitted in black bowties, the cellared dining room is still surrounded by a bevy of thick plastic plants and mirrored columns, and the menu continues its homage to Godfather-inspired Italian cooking. But let’s face it: who wouldn’t want a two-hour respite from the ills of the twenty-first century?

The high-backed chairs, with their history-worn arms, make anyone under six feet tall feel like a child, which is much the same feeling you get from the staff. Given the longevity of the restaurant, diners are really guests in Nino’s house, and though you might feel that the interior could use a little sprucing, chances are you’ll keep that opinion to yourself.

The menu has changed little since its inception, offering two dozen appetizers and more than sixty (oh, the inventory!) entrees. Rather than just sticking to Italian staples (such as veal marsala or fettucini carbonara), D’Urso also prepares pastas, meats and seafood with a variety of wines and an enthusiastic dose of mozzarella, prosciutto, roasted peppers and plum tomatoes. Capriccio’s strong sense of self is personified by the waitstaff, one of whom, upon informing me that the pasta is no longer homemade but produced by Venda Ravioli, declares, “Everybody’s pasta is!”

The kitchen does treat the pasta kindly, though. Rigatoni ai quattro formaggi is layered with gorgonzola, parmesan and two types of mozzarella yet escapes the curse of being too heavy. Pappardelle with porcini mushrooms and pomodoro sauce is light and tangy, though the prosciutto is noticeable gamey.

Gino Castellano, the dining room captain, is another staple of the Capriccio persona, flambeing steak Diane and cherries jubilee tableside since the restaurant opened. I was a little concerned to see beef tenderloin pounded into a scaloppini, but Castellano skillfully cooks it to medium-rare without losing the meat’s tenderness. Throw in a splash of Worcestershire and a dollop of Dijon (polyester pants suit optional) and you’re in ’70s heaven. Then again, one gets the feeling that the men at Capriccio wouldn’t care for this nostalgic description. Our server visits several times to inquire about — actually, insist upon — how pleased we are with dinner. “How’s your steak? It’s good, right!”

Scampi Capriccio succeeds with its four jumbo, butterflied shrimp and tangle of capellini served in a sauce not overpowered by garlic or wine. Veal Oscar, on the other hand, disappoints with its tough meat and uninspiring mashed potatoes.

So what is the appeal of one of Providence’s longest-running restaurants? Just that. It harkens back to a time when we were paying sixty-three cents a gallon at the pump. It’s the memories of yesteryear and an adamant refusal to change for the sake of innovation. The experience may be dated but remains enjoyable, even without the rose-hued lenses of nostalgia.

Capriccio -
2 Pine Street, 421-1320,
www.cafenuovo.com/capriccio/
Years in Business: 30
Chef: Nino D’Urso
Cuisine: Italian
Dinner for Two: $140
Get: Anything prepared tableside.
DONT GET: Meats, and hard-to-find seafood, which may be frozen in order to keep the large inventory.