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Creating a Wine Cellar

If you really want to understand and appreciate all the nuances of the grape, cellaring is a logical next step and a fine learning tool. Of course, the promise of exquisite wines down the road (not to mention never running out) isn’t too difficult to swallow, either. So no more waiting— a growing stash of cases nesting in the basement today is a sure incentive for a tony wine cellar tomorrow. Here are some things you need to know:

 Aging Gracefully
“The kitchen counter is terrible for keeping wine longer than a few days, max,” explains Jessica Granatiero at East Greenwich’s The Savory Grape. No matter how far you want to go with a storage area—tricked-out vault or cellar corner—hear this: Wine requires a steady temperature. “Variations play havoc,” Granatiero says. “To develop slowly, wine demands a temperature of about fifty-five degrees. A few degrees colder or warmer is no problem as long as conditions are consistent.”

Another must? Proper humidity. Too little and corks shrink and air seeps into the bottle causing oxidation (translation: undesirable color and taste changes). Too much and corks and labels mold. A humidity level around 70 percent is ideal. Long exposure to sunlight or artificial light also results in oxidation; that’s why bottles are often green or brown and shops dim lights. 

And, finally, there’s stillness. Wine should grow old—traditionally on its side to keep the wine touching the cork—stress-free. Motion (the dishwasher or kids jumping) disturbs the sediment and causes premature aging.

Setting up Shop

Consider: Home wine cellars can be actively or passively cooled. It all depends on how serious you want to get. The most glorious (like those pictured here) incorporate fine-tuned mechanical systems to maintain correct temperature and humidity. Carefully designed, boasting top-notch materials and custom racks, cellars like these can cost as much as a luxury car and more.

If you’re thinking about a DIY project, Martin Israelit at Coldmasters Temperature Control, a custom refrigeration company in Providence, suggests constructing a room (solid two-by-fours, please) away from the boiler, installing a moisture barrier, along with two to four inches of insulation, and an outside door with weather stripping. “You can make a hole in your box and stick in a basic cooling unit,” says Israelit. Figure spending about $1,200 for the unit (BreezeAire.com has plenty) and around $2,000 to $3,000 for construction depending on whether you hire a contractor. Affordable ready-made wood or wire racks lend refinement (visit winecellarinnovations.com or californiaclosets.com) to view the choices. 

Passively cooled cellars maximize existing conditions. For instance, Barrington architect and wine aficionado David Andreozzi, who has designed numerous cellars for clients, simply piles his private collection in the basement of his air-conditioned house.

“I’m a heathen,” Andreozzi says. “I like fruity wines. My collection is composed primarily of California wines made to be drunk within the decade, which means my risks are low. If you’re taking it to another level, buying French Burgundy to keep thirty years, you’d be foolish not to buy a well-made refrigeration system.”

Whatever your decision, for peace of mind, heed Israelit’s advice and nab an inexpensive (around $50 at Radio Shack) remote temperature sensor. “I keep mine in my bedroom,” he says. “Every morning I check the temperature outside, in the bedroom and in my wine cellar.”

Grape Expectations

“Don’t imagine the bottle you open in 2012 will taste the same as it did last night. Wine’s flavor changes with time,” says Liz Moniz-Steely at Providence’s Campus Wines. “A fruity subtle taste might grow more mellow or earthier.” The appearance can change as well. Take vintage Champagne: Left in the rack, it assumes a deeper golden color.

In general, old world wines, those produced in countries like France and Italy, have high acid and low alcohol content. Aging softens tannins and acids and helps develop flavor. New world wines—think places such as California and Australia—have less acid, more sugar (higher alcohol) and thus less longevity. Although red wines are often thought of first for cellaring, some whites also age gracefully, among them Riesling, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Sauternes.

Higher-quality wines last longer than lower-quality wines of the same kind. A nice Bordeaux, say, could survive five to twenty years, but a Bordeaux from a premier winery might survive three decades and counting.

Best strategy? “A mix,” Moniz-Steely says. “You want some to enjoy now as well as some to hold for the future.” Her personal favorite at this moment? A Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1990, a thirtieth birthday present. Recently settled in her first house, Moniz-Steely imagines sharing it with family on Christmas. 

Remember, a reputable wine store is your most trustworthy source. The best are enthusiastic and willing to share expertise. Auctions and buying online are hit and miss unless you’re certain how the wine has been stored. If you’re still a bit of a neophyte, don’t try to buy wine as an investment. “It’s a risky business,” explains Stephen Giorgi, wine director at Town Wine and Liquors in Rumford. “Most collectors are passionate; they buy out of love.”

Ripe for the Picking

“Knowing when to uncork comes with long practice,” Giorgi claims. Find a vintage (hint: 2005 was an overall great year) or a winery you like, buy a couple of bottles and experiment. Open one this year, one next, and so forth. Happily, an astute palate takes work. If you sample a vintage and find it delectable, your job is done—drink it and its siblings! Kept too long, some wines can peak and peter.

We asked our experts to name some possible recruits, at various price points, for the cellar. Here’s a sampling (R for red, W for white) from their shopping lists:

Less than $25 per bottle:
Quinta do Vale Meandro, Portugal, 2006 (R)
Chateau de Parenchere, France, 2005 (R)
Hill of Content Shiraz, Australia, 2005 (R)
Baron “K” Kabinett Riesling, Germany, 2006 (W)
Rock and Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 2005 (R)
Chateau de Cazenove, France, 2005 (R)

More than $45 per bottle:
Chateau Lascombes (Margaux), France, 2005 (R)
Numanthia, Spain, 2005 (R)
Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Bourgogne, France, 2004 (W)
Brunaio Brunello, Italy, 2001 (R)
De Trafford Shiraz, South Africa, 2005 (R)
Chateau Duhart Milon, France, 2003 (R)